The capital started life in the area now known as Chinatown, an unmissable combination of food, noise, shopping, and shouting where many continue to live as they have done for dacades. David Bowden introduces those not yet in the know to the enjoyment available on the (in)famous Petaling Street.

Petaling Street is possibly the most famous street in the country, and one that is well-known to locals and tourists alike, all who flock here for the excitement and market bargains on offer. This is a high-energy part of the Malaysian capital, Kuala Lumpur, and there are some sections of the street that don’t appear to have changed for decades. Its night market is its most endearing quality, although there is also a vibrant daytime face to one of the oldest parts of the city.

Market Bustle

The historic street gets most energetic as lively banter and trade begins between the hawker stall owners and countless numbers of tourists just as the sun starts to set over the crowded urban landscape. The food and shopping are very good, and the original architecture is fascinating, despite having become slightly worn around the edges.

Petaling Street is a maze of stalls, shops, and retail outlets, but for those who don’t like crowds or having to bargain for what they buy, the city’s air-conditioned malls may be a better option. If braving the market itself, rest assured that the stall owners will always get the better of you, but go with the flow and enjoy the bargaining and the theatre that’s involved.

Chinatowns the world over have their own unique attributes, and the one in Kuala Lumpur doesn’t disappoint. A visit to Chinatown is a sensory journey for most visitors, and the experience is thrilling, especially for first-timers. It’s difficult not to be excited by the variety of new sensations, from the range of exotic aromas, the hustle and bustle of traders interacting with passers-by, to the intensity of all the marketing action. While it can get hot, busy, and ocasionally claustrophobic, at least you know you’re alive and in Asia having fun.

Window On The Past

Much of what occurs in this part of the city hasn’t changed for decades. You may still see old men pedaling their dilapidated bicycles to collect and deliver their wares as they have done forever. Chinese medicine shops display their traditional herbs and medicines in buildings that have remained unchanged for decades. There are goldsmiths, basket weavers, dry goods shops, food outlets, and stores selling clothes for every occasion. Many of the older shop owners hold fast as new developments slowly make inroads and many shop façades are constantly being modernised.

Perhaps the most authentic section of Petaling Street is on the western side of the market, beyond Hotel Lok Ann. This is the part of the street that isn’t covered by the canopy that now protects the stalls from the weather (and yet looks completely out of place with the historic streetscape). Here, several traditional shops sit side by side with a few that have modern façades. There is a hardware store here that has been selling its wares for several decades.

Fresh And Fruity

There is always something open at all hours of the day on this stretch of street, although the wet market – located between Petaling Street and Lorong Bandar – is most active early in the morning and again at sunset. Many products are sold here, from fish and meat to vegetables and fruit, plus an enticing array of herbs and spices.

Most of the traders here are Chinese and have been selling their fresh goods for a lifetime, and so don’t take too kindly to nosey tourists asking too many questions. Having their photographs taken is another sensitive issue, so exercise caution when you get the urge. Some may not be too concerned but don’t assume, and always ask or indicate before hitting them with the full force of your flash. The traders are here to sell their products and if you’re not a buyer don’t be surprised that they may not be too interested in you.

Street Theatre

For many, Chinatown is a big rip-off, as a variety of inexpensive but fake clothes, watches, CDs, and DVDs are sold everywhere despite such activities being supposedly illegal in Malaysia. The five-foot walkways still remain to offer shelter from the tropical heat, but they are mostly filled with traders and their stalls selling all sorts of treasures.

Many of these merchants sell a variety of near “genuine” brands and operate seemingly with immunity. It’s all a part of the fun, just don’t be surprised if that “designer” watch you buy self-destructs just months after being purchased. (On the other hand, many of them are excellent watches, although you can be assured that the “diamonds” in the watch face won’t be genuine.)
 
While prices may be displayed, bargaining is an essential component of shopping in Petaling Street. Firstly, choose a price that you’re happy with (at least 50% less than what the trader asks) and then start the great game of bargaining. You can be guaranteed that the trader will get the better of you, but does it really matter? Pay what you think it’s worth and enjoy the fun.

Located as it is in a multicultural country, the area of Chinatown isn’t entirely devoted to the Chinese culture and activities anymore. While the streets around Petaling Street are known as Chinatown, it’s a very ethnically mixed district, with an Indian temple and various Malay curry houses providing examples of its multiculturalism. These days, the traders on Petaling Street come from all over the region, with Bangladeshi and Nepali traders not being uncommon.

Street Food

Like every other Chinatown in the world, food is an essential part of the Petaling Street experience. Being a tourist area, there are many restaurants and a few bars that cater specifically to tourists, complete with “special” tourist prices. To avoid the premium prices in the “power” locations (those in the open air along the street), head to the back of these restaurants, where most activity is directed to serving food to hungry locals. That said, there is something atmospheric about dining under the stars, so paying “premium” may not be such a bad thing.

Restaurants open along Jalan Hang Lekir in the evening and visitors are attracted here by the relaxed open-air ambience and the persistent staff. Several restaurants sell a variety of Chinese dishes while others specialise in just one or two.

Always Time For Eating

Dim sum is a popular breakfast option, but after this has been finished midmorning, Petaling Street quietens down. The action picks up at lunchtime as office workers satisfy cravings that have been high on their minds since breakfast.

Activity winds down again in the early afternoon, but once work finishes, the streets return to their frenzied state. Food is served around the clock in makeshift, open-air stalls; in fan-cooled coffee shops; or in air-conditioned restaurants. There are also places where you can fill up a takeaway box with your choice of foods to eat at your leisure. Some favourite dishes in Chinatown include dim sum, Hainanese chicken rice, curry laksa (a coconut-based curry soup), wonton mee (dumplings and noodles in soup), Asam laksa (a sour, fish-based soup) and yong tau foo (a clear soup containing a selected assortment of vegetables, seafood, and tofu).

The Old China Café (www.oldchina.com. my), just around the corner from Petaling Street on Jalan Bali Polis, is one of the city’s more atmospheric restaurants. It is located in what was once the old guild hall of Selangor and Federal Territory Laundry Association. Old historic photos line the walls while tasty Peranakan dishes line the stomachs of its patrons.

Chinatown is also cheap location for pre-dinner drinks, and many places have happy hours that seem to last most of the day and serve “buy one get one free” on drinks.

Chinese New Year

Chinese New Year (in January or February depending on the year) is a special time for Petaling Street. While the lead up to the festivities is very busy, one of the street’s least active times is during Chinese New Year itself. Although there are only two days of official public holidays, most Chinese businesses close for up to five days. Before and during the celebration, Chinatown is decorated in a sea of red (the colour the Chinese associate with happiness). Red lanterns illuminate the pavement and boxes of mandarins (a symbol of good fortune) are sold.

Chinatown is best visited in the days before the celebration, as it’s mostly quiet during the actual festival. Preparations begin weeks before the actual date as local Chinese people start buying presents, food, and clothing and decorating their homes and shops.

Sideshow

Chinatown’s markets extend well beyond Petaling Street, and those who are culturally inclined may want to check out some of the interesting sites in the adjoining streets.

The colourful and ornate façade of Sri Mahamariaman Hindu Temple, built in 1873, is an arresting sight. The vibrantly coloured temple was constructed over a century ago and it is one the most important place of worship in Kuala Lumpur for Hindus. Fragrant jasmine garlands are sold from streetside stalls and the entrance is lined with shoes, as these must be removed before entering the temple. Like other places of worship in Malaysia, this is a solemn place first and a tourist attraction second.

Tze Ya Temple on Jalan Hang Kasturi is Kuala Lumpur’s oldest temple. Its entrance is not clearly visible apart from the colourful façade. This small temple is always a hive of activity as worshippers burn sticks of colourful incense, make offerings on the altars, and beat big brass gongs. The back entrance to the temple opens onto Central Market.

Getting There

For directions to this part of the city simply ask your taxi driver to take you to Petaling Street; the fare should be less than RM10 from most parts of the inner city. While Chinatown is concentrated around Petaling Street, it is bounded by Jalan Tun H S Lee, Jalan Cheng Lock, Jalan Hang Lekir, and Jalan Balai Polis.

To use public transport, take the LRT train to Pasar Seni, and follow the signs for Petaling Street. From the station, it takes less than five minutes to be in the heart of the action.

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Source: Senses of Malaysia May-Jun 2013
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