Let this delightful Thai island melt away your cares. Join intrepid traveller David Bowden as he finds much to enjoy on his tropical island getaway.
The minute I stepped off my aircraft onto the tarmac at Koh Samui Airport, I got the sense that this isn’t just another Thai island. Not that’s there’s anything wrong with being yet another Thai island, this was different. The intensely blue sky was punctuated by puffy white clouds, the air was clean with a whiff of salt, it was warm, and the ground crew were smiling like they were genuinely happy to see me. I quickly decided that Koh Samui does good arrivals!
As I descended the steps to an open-sided trolley car, I couldn’t help but wonder if this was all intentional. The authorities perhaps want visitors to immediately experience this tropical island. Although I myself had only travelled the short distance from tropical Kuala Lumpur, I thought how special this moment must be for those flying in on a long-haul flight from winterbound Europe. They must think they have arrived in paradise, and that this is only the airport; it can only get better.
The breeze ruffled my hair as we skirted the palm-fringed tarmac to the immigration counter which looks like a fairground ticket booth. Passport processing is done effortlessly and with a smile and soon the bags appear on possibly the smallest carousel I’ve ever seen in an international airport. Everyone appears to be dressed in tropical attire; no loud Hawaiian shirts, but lots of floral patterns and loose-fitting clothing. It just felt like a vacation place already.
Beachfront Resorts
While there are cultural and natural attractions on Koh Samui, it’s the beaches that pull in the crowds, and the prime resort locations are those that front onto the golden sands. This 250-km2 island is Thailand’s third-largest after Phuket and Koh Chang. Like most Thai island resort destinations, Koh Samui started as a backpacker island with a plethora of simple but comfortable accommodations located within a hop, step, and a jump from the turquoise waters of the Gulf of Thailand. The adjoining island of Koh Pha-Ngan (or Phangan) still appeals to budget-conscious travellers with the famed “full moon raves” attracting young partygoers from around the globe.
Budget travellers paved the way for jetsetters, and over the past decade, resort names such as the stunning Banyan Tree, Anantara, Impiana, SALA, Amari, Imperial, W Retreat, Mercure, Conrad, The Library, Hansar, Ibis, Napasai by Orient-Express, Four Seasons, InterContinental, and Beach Republic have put their name boards up at the front entrance to their luxurious properties. It’s safe to say that Koh Samui has now been well and truly discovered.
Budget accommodation is still available with tariffs lowering with distance from the beach and away from the main beaches of Chaweng, Lamai, and Bophut. Even on the most popular beaches, the crowds haven’t yet reached the proportions of those on Phuket, so Koh Samui still appeals to those who want to get away from things. Chaweng is the most popular beach and perfect for those who want beachside action around the clock. Its 4-km sweep of sand is where all the daytime fun in the sun happens, and the road behind is full of places to eat, drink, party, and shop. Lamai is the second-largest beach, essentially a smaller version of Chaweng.
Some visitors don’t even get to the beach, preferring to cocoon themselves into the surroundings of their luxurious resort. When I arrived at my resort, I was met by lots of smiling staff and the shimmering waters of its private beach protected by rocky headlands. Within minutes I was transported by a golf cart up winding paths to my hilltop villa perched along the ridgeline, with the beach way down below in a landscaped valley. My pool villa was ultra-chic with contemporary fittings and with separate lounge area, bedroom and a bathroom as big as the other two rooms. A super-sized balcony had an infinity pool with views that just made me want to plunge into the pool and never get out.
Epicurean Delights
Koh Samui’s influx of luxurious resorts has seen a commensurate growth in great food served in iconic restaurants. Naturally, Thai food dominates and there’s nothing so enjoyable as a plate of spicy pad Thai or some freshly-prepared gang som and Singha beer in a roadside stall. One of the great attractions of Thailand is the freshness of produce and its great value for money.
There’s no shortage of stalls, cafés, restaurants, and bars from local to international comfort food. While beer is cheap, wine is more expensive than in Malaysia. All the resorts have signature restaurants with some of the island’s leading restaurants located in resorts although there are many freestanding outlets. Views, beachfront location and ambiance are also important. Enjoy a night out by choosing restaurants such as Spirit House, RockPool, Dining on the Rocks, The Cliff Bar and Grill, Dr Frogs, The Library, The Larder, Poppies, Chaweng Seafood Centre, or Ploy Samui Seafood.
After dinner, head off to the main beaches for some late night beverages, music and, in some; dancing. Bar Solo in Bophut is popular while down on Chaweng there are Irish bars, beachfront bars, replica English pubs like The Duke and smart contemporary bars. Drink Gallery in The Library on Chaweng is a sophisticated bar while many aren’t much more than holes in the wall. Swing Bar on Lamai has lounges right on the sand and the drinks are much cheaper than Malaysia.
Out and About
Koh Samui offers many holiday activities around the island for those seeking some respite from lazing around in the sun. For those who really want to do the tourist thing, Samui offers everything from elephants to shooting and go-karting. Watersports are extensive with most resorts offering many passive and active activities. Koh Samui’s forested interior has some appealing waterfalls and jungle treks are also possible. Thai cooking classes such as the Samui Institute of Thai Culinary Arts (www.sitca.net) is Chaweng is also a popular activity for many.
Beach Republic (www.beachrepublic.com) near Lamai Beach is a resort but also party central for outsiders who want to come and join in all the daytime fun. They usually offer chargeable packages for outsiders such as buffet lunch, one-hour massage, use of the gym, herbal steam room, pool, and the beach. On Sundays, the extended brunch attracts a funky young crowd who come for the pool action and the DJ music. Koh Phangan in the offshore Ang Thong Marine National Park is for those who like to party, especially at the notorious full moon events. Things have been cleaned up in recent years and it’s not as wild as many are led to believe. For something completely different, go diving around Koh Tao considered one of Thailand’s best dive sites.
TRAVEL FILE
- Getting There:
One easy way to Koh Samui is on Firefly Airlines (www.fireflyz.com.my), which flies from Subang Airport in KL four times weekly directly to the Thai island. Another choice is via boutique airline Bangkok Airways (www.bangkokair.com), which flies daily with a terrific schedule. Flights depart KL at 8.25am and depart Koh Samui at 5.55pm to make the most of your time there. - Where to Stay:
Banyan Tree Samui (www.banyantree.com) is, of course, a top choice. Mercure Samui Chaweng Tana (www.mercure.com) is an excellent boutique hotel at an affordable price for those who like to be in the thick of the action. It’s surrounded by restaurants, bars and shops and yet quiet enough to get a restful sleep. - Travel Tips:
The monsoon affects the Gulf of Thailand from November (the wettest month) to January but often the afternoon showers are short and sharp. Most travellers to Thailand are issued with a free 90-day visa upon arrival.
Homepage highlight photo credit: Sarah_Ackerman, Flickr
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