Square Tower and Dewan Undangan Negeri Kuching

For many visitors to East Malaysia, the coastal city of Sarawak’s capital is both a first port of call and prime destination of its own. As David Bowden shares here, Kuching is also a terrific introduction to the myriad cultures and foods of East Malaysia.

Kuching, the Sarawak capital, has many appealing tourism assets with the gently meandering Sarawak River being just one of them. East Malaysians have long valued their differences and visitors to the state of Sarawak will enjoy its relaxed lifestyle and alternate approach to many things. One of the first things tourists from the Peninsula will notice is that they have to proceed through Sarawak immigration and customs upon arrival despite having never left Malaysia.

Kuching is an amazing city that brings together its tribal and colonial past and the 21st century.The southern, or city, side of the Sarawak River called the Waterfront has several historic sites (including those established by the celebrated White Rajahs who once ran the affairs of state), restaurants, shaded areas, and a lively atmosphere. Many visitors choose to dine at the James Brooke Bistro and Café along the Waterfront to enjoy Western favourites and several local delicacies.

It’s more like traditional village life on the other side, but well worth a sampan ride across the river to explore several attractions here, including the somewhat jarring new legislative building and the adjoining Fort Margherita, named after the wife of one of Sarawak’s White Rajahs.

Down by the River

Sarawak River and Waterfront Kuching

Kuching’s Waterfront is a 2km-long stretch of open space and lively activity. Running parallel to the Waterfront is the Main Bazaar which is lined with souvenir shops, produce stores, boutique accommodations, and some restaurants. The adjoining colourful red and green Tua Pek Kong Temple built in 1843 is worth visiting, and sunset river cruises are also available.

Shoppers need look no further than the Main Bazaar located in the centre of town. There are numerous shops selling much the same thing with varying degrees of authenticity from collectable Sarawak antiquities (Johns Gallery at No 62 Main Bazaar has many authentic pieces) to mass-produced souvenirs mostly imported from the Indonesian Kalimantan side of Borneo. It’s a shoppers’ haven with items ranging from carved wood and bird’s nest to various interesting potions and elixirs sold by roadside hawkers. Tattooing is another local tradition and for those who want to indulge,Yeo’s Tattoo at No 9 Jalan China offers many local designs.

City Sights

Chinese Temple and Modern Building in Kuching

Sarawak Museum is considered one of the best museums in South East Asia and a visit to the old and new wings are highly recommended. The old 19th century Victorian-style building is laden with dusty and crusty remains and artifacts with the state’s crafts of ikat weaving, wooden carvings, and intricate beadwork making it worth the effort. There is a walk-through longhouse for those who haven’t the time to visit the real thing. Admission is free and there is a good souvenir shop and café located in the new wing.

Satok Weekend Market is the place to be at week’s end as it seems to sell everything and anything including upriver produce (look for ferns, wild honey, and sago worms), food (barbecued fish, and coconut crêpes), handicrafts and magic elixirs. Seek out forest products, tongkat ali, bird’s nest products, famed Sarawak pepper, handicrafts, beads, carved wood and ikat textiles.The market is located just a short taxi drive from the city centre and operates on both Saturdays and Sundays.

Kuching is the gateway for tourists to many ethnic and cultural activities, and the natural bliss offered in national parks and reserves such as Bako, Gunung Gading, Semenggoh and Matang which are close by. Orang Utans are housed in natural surrounds in the latter two parks. Bako National Park is good to walk off some energy, but come prepared with lots of water, as well as sunblock and a hat, as it can get quite exposed especially in the heath forest that is just one of the forest types found in the park.

You can also head off on various headhunter trails in search of orang utans, longhouses, and some fascinating scenery. Sarawak Cultural Village at Damai (a 45-minute drive away) is a living museum of nine of Sarawak’s main ethnic groups. Its natural surroundings of lake and forests at the base of Mount Santubong make it a very picturesque destination.

Laksa of all Laksas

Sarawak Laksa Stall

Laksa is one of Malaysia’s iconic dishes and the version they serve in town is not surprisingly called Sarawak laksa. The preparation of the dish is complex, but looks simple when served within a few minutes of ordering in one of many hawker stalls offering the dish.Vermicelli noodles are combined with spicy gravy that has been prepared from spices, plus chicken and prawn stock. Bean sprouts, fresh coriander, prawns, chicken, and sliced omelette are placed on top. Almost everyone in Kuching can suggest the best version with many agreeing upon the one served in Chong Choon Café near the city centre as one of the better ones. Another local treat is kolo mee of egg noodles, pork, fish balls, and vegetables that can be eaten wet or dry.

Look out for Borneo’s unique libation called tuak, or rice wine. Places like the intimate bar in the Batik Boutique Hotel serve tuak margaritas. The Junk (Jalan Wayang near the Borneo Hotel) is a maze of bars and dining spaces in what looks like an antique junkyard. Choose The Red Room, Backstage or The Hole in theWall whose entrance is exactly that. Specialty beverages include tuak mojitos and a non-alcoholic “555 sour.”There are several other pubs in the area here to make it a popular one-stop night venue.

Kuching Hotels

Batik Hotel Kuching

Kuching has a property to accommodate all pockets from five-star to budget. The Hotel Pullman Kuching (www.pullmankuching.com) is Kuching’s most inviting five-star property with 389 deluxe rooms fitted out with excellent facilities.

Choose city or river views and enjoy the shopping in the adjoining Hills Shopping Mall. Cocktails are served in Déjà Vu Bar, international buffets in Puzzle and Chinese cuisine in Nu Er Hong Chinese Restaurant.

Batik Boutique Hotel (www.batikboutiquehotel.com) a funky boutique hotel where guests enjoy freeWi-Fi and meals in Bites by Batik. Batik is centrally located and they also offer excursions to remote villages and some surrounding natural areas.

Ranee Boutique Suites (www.theranee.com) is perfectly located on the Main Bazaar and the rooms are beautifully decorated with wooden floors and contemporary features. There is a small street front coffee shop which also sells some fine handicrafts.Wo Jia Lodge (www.wojialodge.com) is a backpacker hotel located along the Main Bazaar.

Getting There

AirAsia (www.airasia.com), Malaysia Airlines (www.malaysiaairlines.com), and Malindo (www.malindoair.com) fly to Kuching from various destinations in Malaysia.

Contact
Sarawak Tourism (www.sarawaktourism.com).

Travel Tip
Don’t forget to bring your passport to Kuching, as the state operates its own immigration service.

Homepage Highlight Photo credit: HooLengSiong / Foter / CC BY

Source: Senses of Malaysia September/October 2014

Read more:

• The Battle between Kota Kinabalu and Kuching
• An Expat’s Adventure in Kuching
• Six Hotels You Should Check Out in Kuching

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