A mere stone’s throw from neighbouring Thailand, the Laotian capital offeres visitor’s a laid-back, relaxing introduction to life in this fascinating nation. Travel photojournalist David Bowden finds much to appreciate as he wanders through the easygoing city of Vientiane.

While there has been a lot of catch up lately, Vientiane moves at a much slower pace than all the other capital cities of Southeast Asia and it may be difficult for first time visitors to realise that this is actually the capital of the Lao Peoples’ Democratic Republic (PDR), known to most by its colonial name, Laos.

Strategically located between southern China and many of the booming ASEAN member states, Laos is becoming a land transport corridor for goods moving around the region. Some observers would claim that Laos is a reluctant participant in this and that development will occur whether the Lao people want it or not, and question who will primarily benefit. The influx of foreign businesses has seen real estate prices in the capital skyrocket, but it will be a long time before benefits flow to the remote villages in this mountainous, landlocked nation.

The capital city of just over 200,000 sprawls along the northern banks of the Mekong River and Buddhist temples (wats) are the highlight of a city tour that many travellers may choose to do in an oversized and covered motorbike called a “jumbo.” The city highlights are That Dam, Wat Si Sakat, Haw Pha Kaeo and the Patuxai (which bears a close resemblance to the Arc de Triomphe in Paris). Out of town, Buddha Park (Xiang Khouan) overlooks the Mekong River, and the Asian oddity of bizarre concrete structures here is best appreciated with a visit.

Vientiane offers a breath of fresh air with its strong cultural ties and its own local treats like tasty and affordable food, superb coffee, exquisite silk, and one of the region’s finest beers (Beer Lao). Vientiane is also the gateway for Luang Prabang, one of the region’s best UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Night On The Town

Rule number one when dining out in Vientiane is not to make the comparison between the local food and that of neighbouring Thailand or Vietnam. While there are many similarities, small nuances make Lao chefs justifiably proud of their cuisine’s unique attributes.

Lao people are also understandably proud of their local brew, Beer Lao, which comes in various styles. Either by design or default, t-shirts and other souvenirs of the beer are probably the number one souvenir purchased by most visitors. It’s also one of the region’s cheapest beers and this is a handy piece of knowledge to have after a thirsty day’s sightseeing.

Food in hawker stalls and even the few fine dining establishments is much cheaper in Vientiane than it is in Malaysia. Wine prices are another surprise, and with no taxes on wines, a fine Barossa or Bordeaux won’t cost a fortune.

Lao dishes are mostly accompanied by sticky rice which is rolled into a ball and popped into the mouth. Several dishes of fish, meat and vegetables may accompany the rice staple. Some common dishes include som moo (fermented pork sausage), laap (minced meat salad with ground rice, mint and onion served with raw vegetables), tam mak houng (green papaya salad) and pho or foe (noodle soup).

There are many restaurants and stalls located near the banks of the Mekong. Included in the list of fine restaurants are several French and Italian establishments. Tamnak Lao, known for its excellent food, cosy interior and friendly service is an institution in the city. This is where well-to-do Lao people dine and is the venue for celebration although the prices are still very competitive considering the surroundings. Viengsavah Restaurant in the middle of Chinatown area offers a real Lao dining experience. Enter past a busy kitchen facing the street with noodle steamers, bubbling pots and charcoal barbecue pits. Signature dishes include spring rolls and barbecued pork meatballs. Makphet serves fabulous Lao food in contemporary surroundings as well as providing training to local street kids. Khop Chai Deu on Sethathirath Road is an old French villa and now a popular restaurant/pub offering a heady combination of food, music and chilled beverages.

Unique Textiles

Masterful Lao weavers continue the tradition of producing the most exquisite hand-woven silk and cotton textiles. Lao weaving has flourished over the past two decades and now employs thousands of women who earn a respectable living from their craft. One of the most popular forms of Lao silk textile is the sinh skirt worn daily by most Lao women. Each 1.8m-long piece takes about a week to weave, and many styles are available in the markets such as Talat Sao (Morning Market) located on Lane Xang Avenue. Its name is a little misleading, as the market is open until late afternoon.

Talat Sao is a typical Asian market full of excellent buys although bargaining always secures the best price. Despite now being a Western-styled shopping centre, its traditional silk market remains mostly unchanged from the past.

One place to observe weavers in action is at Carol Cassidy Textiles (www.laotextiles. com), located in a beautiful colonial villa in downtown Vientiane. Carol Cassidy is an American who has been involved in the Lao silk industry since early 1989 and combines traditional Lao weaving techniques with contemporary designs and colours.

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TRAVEL FACTS

Getting There: AirAsia flies directly from Kuala Lumpur to Vientiane and the flight takes a little over two hours.
 
Where to Stay: One choice is The Mercure Vientiane (T: +856 21 213-570, www.mercure.com), which offers excellent accommodation and is a refreshing walk from the city centre and the Mekong River. There is a small pool, gym, pool bar, and restaurant.

Visas: Malaysians don’t require a visa but many other nationals do. Visas are available upon arrival and range in price depending upon the nationality from USD20 (China) to USD42 (Canada). It is advisable to pay in US dollars.

Travel Tips: The local currency is the kip and there are approximately 2,500 to the ringgit. Thai Baht and US dollars are also widely used, and currency can be changed at the airport, banks, and large markets. The usual caution regarding safety needs to be mentioned. With a huge disparity between the Lao haves and the have-nots, petty crime and street thief occurs more frequently than it should. This means motorcycle drive-by snatchings, so be careful of cameras, phones, and handbags. Purchase a copy of Enchanting Laos by Mick Shippen (published by John Beaufoy, UK) in preparation for a holiday in Laos or as a great souvenir of such a trip.

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Source: The Expat May 2013
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