This post was written by Hugh Ujhazy

Archeologically-inclined travellers may choose Peru, Mexico, Egypt, Cambodia, or Rome as their destinations. Hugh Ujhazy explains why those in Southeast Asia should make the short trip to Malaysia’s dragon Valley.
 
One hour north of Penang and half an hour south of Alor Setar is a place that transports you 1,500 years back in history. Literally “Dragon Valley,” it was once a thriving trading centre for the Hindu-Buddhist empire that then occupied it and is now the oldest and richest archeological site in Malaysia.

Because of its location along the trade route, Bujang Valley (also known as Nusantara) became a prosperous kingdom attracting traders from China, India and the Middle East. In its time, it was visited by Tamil poets, Arab merchants of the fourth century and I-Tsing, a monk who sailed from China to India.

The town of Merbok in Kedah is home to the Bujang Valley Archaeological Museum and home to relocated candi from around the region. 50 of these ancient tomb temples have been unearthed since the first was discovered in the late 1930s. Around them fine bronze and stone statues, relics, pottery and personal adornments have been discovered. This treasure trove takes one back in time from the third to 14th century AD to its Hindu and Buddhist roots.

The museum in scenic Bukit Batu Pahat lies near waterfalls and extensive tropical rainforest. The area is also a popular recreation site. Director of the Department of Museums Malaysia (northern region) Zulkifli Jaafar said the museum has among its programs a Heritage Trail package which takes one on a 7.9km trek from the museum grounds in Merbok to Gunung Jerai.

The grassy site for the museum and outdoor display sit at the end of another small valley. The museum is cool and well-organized, with a map of the area and a series of recovered relics include bronze receptacles filled with ashes, gold, silver and bronze platters, gemstones and pearl ornaments, bronze statues as well as Chinese ceramics. Discoveries in the area continue as students from universities around Malaysia perform research in the area.

The largest central candi has a long stone approach before the exterior of the temple is seen. Previously suspected to have wooden and thatch roofing and walls, these have disappeared over the centuries along with documentation that would support accurate reconstruction. The honesty of the display is refreshing, as the temples are presented as they were found with idealized guesswork reinventing history.

Visitors can picnic and swim here or go for a hike to explore the rich flora and fauna. There is ample parking space and facilities include a cafeteria, surau, public toilets and a bookstore. Afternoons are the best time to visit, after the weekend buses have left and generally you will have the place to yourself.

Boats can easily be hired at the Semeling jetty or Tanjung Dawai jetty for a cruise down the scenic mangrove and explore its unique habitat. Come dusk, visitors to the Sungai Merbok estuary can also look forward to the wonderful display of fireflies lighting the dark skies.

While in the area, don’t miss an opportunity to make the drive to the top of nearby Gurun Jerai (Mount Jerai) which looms 1200m over the paddy field-dotted landscape of southern Kedah. The mountain itself is clearly visible across the water from Penang. The road to the summit is a well maintained steep series of switch backs and turns that quickly rise above the coastal plain. Once at the top, the hotel Peranginan Gunung Jerai sits atop the peak. Just recently reopened, its newly-renovated chalets connected by meandering pathways and spectacular views of the coast and the Straits of Malacca await. During the rice harvest, isolated fires can be seen sending spirals of smoke into the afternoon sky amid a patchwork of golden fields. When the rice is coming to maturity, incredible shades of brilliant green make a verdant quilt across the morning landscape. Choosing the terrace of the hotel restaurant is the ideal place to contemplate the sun setting across the ocean whilst choosing from the extensive menu of beverages and light snacks.

The famous Alur Naga waterfall is located about 200m from the resort. The hike down a path of steep boulders is well worth it as one could spend the whole day enjoying the serenity and beauty of the falls.The water is clear and the 30m high waterfall breathtaking. The pool beneath it is waist deep and safe for swimming. The name derives from a legendary dragon believed to have lived behind the waterfall and that occasionally came out to bathe in the pool. Another legend tells that a king called Raja Bersiong (king with fangs) used this pool as his private bathing pool. Located near the waterfall, a huge rock resembles a ship which was believed to have turned to stone. On top of the rock one can see long diagonal lines intersecting one another exactly like the wooden planks on a ship. A short distance from Batu Kapal, are three strangely shaped stones – a human head, three toes and a dolphin. According to legend, a long, long time ago, the sea level was higher and Gunung Jerai was not a mountain but only an island called Pulau Serai. Batu Kapal, which was actually a junk, was shipwrecked when it was caught in the coral reefs. The human head and the three toes could have belonged to one of the sailors andtogether with the dolphin, were all changed into stone for eternity.

Though only a small region, the beauty and accessibility of the Bujang valley area makes it a must see for visitors to Penang and Alor Setar.

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Source: Senses of Malaysia May-Jun 2013
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