For visitors keen to enjoy some relaxation in a quaint seaside town not far from the hustle and bustle of greater Manila, travel photojournalist David Bowden suggests a stay at the resort town of Subic Bay, a local favourite.

The Philippines is often in the news for all the wrong reasons, or perhaps due to some natural disaster such as a typhoon or volcanic eruption. This Southeast Asian country’s most notorious recent eruption was that of 1,486m Mount Pinatubo, which in 1991 devastated the immediate surroundings and led to the U.S. Air Force and Navy permanently evacuating their bases in nearby Luzon.

Putting the occasional natural disasters aside, The Philippines is a nation of thousands of tropical islands and many appealing tourist attractions, activities, and events. There are several gateways apart from the capital Manila, with Clark Air Base just to the west being one option (and the airport used by budget carrier AirAsia). Travelling to the beachside resort location of Subic Bay was once an arduous journey, but a direct flight to Clark now means that the sands of Subic Bay are just a few easy hours away from Kuala Lumpur.

From Clark, arriving passengers have the options of travelling to Manila, staying in the adjoining Angeles City next to Clark, or heading off for some time in the sun at Subic Bay. While Subic may not rank up there with the finest seaside resorts in the region, the waters of the bay are vast and clean, and the golden-sand beaches are relaxing and seldom crowded. An array of watersport activities along the beach provide a resort ambiance.

Beyond The Beaches

Subic’s rest and recreation facilities were initially put in place to cater to American sailors on much-needed shore leave, so almost anything was once available. Things dropped off a little after the Americans pulled out, but domestic tourism has injected new life into the destination.

Some holiday activities away from the beachfront include Zoobic Safari (www. zoomanity.com.ph) with a night safari that is worth checking out. This is a drive-through park setting covering 25ha with animals such as tigers (Siberian and Bengal), lions, ostriches, monkeys, reptiles, crocodiles, camels, and deer among the most popular. Tree Top Adventure (www.treetopadventure. ph.com) is home to jungle trekking,

suspension bridges, and soaring through the rainforest canopy on the Superman Ride, a 140m-long zip-line ride some 30m above the rainforest floor. Burn off some energy on the mangrove trails through Subic Bay Nature Park. Jungle Joe’s World is the place for some paintball, ATVs, and even a bit of rollerblading action.

Just out of town, the old naval golf course has been rejuvenated as Subic Golf by SubicLeisureWorld. While the original course was 18 holes, some are being currently remodelled and only 13 holes are available, but the others should be available for play later in the year. The playable holes are in very good condition and are artfully crafted through surrounding rainforest so there are lots of natural distractions between holes. Even at the weekends, a round of golf here is about half the price that golfers pay in Malaysia, so it offers excellent value. For those who want to try their luck, Legend Filipino @ Subic Bay Casino is located immediately adjacent to the sands of Subic Bay.

Fantastic Filipino Food

It will come as no surprise that food is readily available and at prices that are generally cheaper than in Malaysia. Being an former American base, a smorgasbord of international cuisines is available but because it’s the Philippines, why not enjoy something local? Try local delicacies such as sizzling sisig (crunchy pork cheek), crispy pata (simmered and deep-fried pork knuckle served with soy sauce, vinegar and chilli), and pancit bihon guisado (meat or seafood noodles). Adventurous diners may want to go more local with balut (duck embryo), chicken inasal (grilled chicken), bulalo (beef soup) and lechon (delicious crispy spit-roasted pork).

The malls are especially popular for fast food of every persuasion. There are also a few uniquely Filipino fast food joints including the very popular Jollibee. Xtremely Xpresso Café is a favourite for its coffee brews and Filipino and international dishes with the huge pizzas served being reason enough to visit. In addition to its warm ambiance, the food is very good and affordable with the baby back ribs as good as the pizza. Welltz Bar & Restaurant in the Terrace Hotel on the bayside has a menu featuring some interesting and creative food with great sea views. Texas Joe’s is a typical American BBQ diner with dishes such as chicken nachos, ribs and pumpkin pie. Johnny Rocket’s Original Hamburgers in Harbour Point Mall is another American concept reminiscent of the fabulous ’50s with the staff breaking into rock ‘n’ roll favourites as the diners tuck into burgers, fries, and soda pops. It’s a fun place and a popular family venue or for youngsters on a date.

Subic After Dark

In its naval base time, lots of extra-curricular activities thrived during the heady days of shore leave. Olongopo is close by and is the place when many singles (mostly men) head when the sun sets over Subic Bay. Raunchy bars, clubs, and energetic shows in the Barretto nightclub area are still very much part of the Olongopo nightlife, and the bars here are more than happy to welcome those looking for some nocturnal release.

Alcohol is freely available in all the restaurants and bars around Subic and Olongopo. There are plenty of chilled San Miguel beers around town, including their premium stout called Cerveza Negra made from roasted malt.

Bayside Accomodation

Being the resort destination that Subic Bay is, accommodation here is plentiful and varied including a few seaside choices. The closest any accommodation comes to a resort is the Lighthouse Marina Resort (www.terracehotelsubicbay.com). Terrace Hotel (www.terracehotelsubicbay.com) located at Moonbay Marina on Waterfront Road offers contemporary studio accommodation. Seorabeol Grand Leisure Hotel (www.seorabeolgrandleisureresort. com) is located across the road with sea views but no immediate frontage. While it’s a 10-minute walk to the beach, Subic Bay International Hotel (www.subichotel.com) is close to Harbour Point Mall for those who want to shop and dine here.

While the range of products is not as extensive as Malaysia, most items in the malls are cheaper than back home.

Purchase affordable alcohol in a dedicated outlet in Harbour Point Mall. Subic Bay is popular for weekend trips for residents of Manila so expect the town to be busiest from Friday to Sunday.

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Getting There

AirAsia (www.airasia.com) is the gateway to Subic Bay with two daily flights to the closest airport of Clark located to the west of Manila. From here, it’s a one-hour drive to Subic Bay with connecting buses, vans, and taxis available.

Getting About

Jeepnies – essentially jeeps on steroids – are available for those who want to go local and appreciate these ornate and gaily decorated vehicles. Some of the hotels here provide bicycles and it’s flat enough to walk to many places. Taxis are the option that most expats will choose, and it’s best to have the hotel concierge arrange this.

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Source: The Expat June 2013
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