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Vietnam is a country with lots to offer the intrepid traveller. One week will barely scratch the surface and with two large cities both serviced by direct flights on airlines originating from Kuala Lumpur, flying into one and out of the other makes perfect sense.
The capital, Hanoi is located in the cooler north while Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC, formerly known as Saigon) is located in more tropical latitudes in the south. There’s probably no greater contrast between two cities in the one Asian country as there is between HCMC and Hanoi. Hanoi is the shy, reserved and conservative one while the southern city is loud, brash and precocious. If you have to choose only one destination, match the city with your personality. While I enjoy both, the slightly more sedate Hanoi is my city of choice.
Once a sleeping giant of Asia, Vietnam has rapidly emerged from its troubled past.
Saigon’s Sideshow
Situated inland on the Mekong Delta, some 40km from the South China Sea, HCMC has seen rapid growth in recent years. Fuelled by economic reforms known as doi moi, this vibrant city appears to be growing eagerly.
There are several wide tree-lined boulevards in the city centre and a walk along Dong Khoi, Ton Duc Thang, Ham Nghi and Le Loi, is a good way to get oriented. Vietnam is really a country that literally lives on the pavement, with entrepreneurs setting up all sorts of food stalls and coffeeshops here.
Leading attractions in the city include Notre Dame Cathedral, Lam Son Square, Municipal Theatre, Hotel de Ville (town hall), Cholon Market and Ben Thanh Market. Much of HCMC is located on the western banks of the Saigon River but catch a small boat along the river for a quieter perspective.
The city has a lively nightlife with plenty of bars and restaurants. Backpacker restaurants, bars, cafés and travel agents are concentrated around an area called Pham Ngu Lao.
There are some great hotels in HCMC. Visit the Rex for its sculptured landscaping and iconic rooftop bar and the Caravelle where foreign correspondents once stayed. For those seeking for smart contemporary accommodation, look no further than the recently opened Pullman or the new-ish Novotel.
Soul City
Given the political and historical significance of Hanoi and its growing population of over 6.5 million, it’s a surprisingly low-key city. It just celebrated its 1,000 birthday, which means there’s history around every corner. The central district is a busy area of tree-lined lakes, shaded boulevards and French-styled villas. The inner city area offers a vibrant, mix of narrow streets especially in the French Quarter.
Most tourist activity occurs around Hoan Kiem Lake with the petite Den Ngoc Son Temple located on an island in the lake that’s accessible via a red wooden bridge. Early morning sees activities around the lake stir to life as joggers and tai chi exponents limber up in the half-light. Space is at a premium in the inner city and the parks around the lake are utilised to their fullest. While the lake itself is small, to local folk, it is the soul of their city.
Hanoi’s centre is compact and bordered by the Red River in the east and the rail line to the north and west. This is the city’s oldest district where some 30 guild streets present a rabbit warren of shops and workshops. Each street was traditionally used by one specific trade group. Noodle soup (pho) stalls are interspersed with bike repair shops and household cafés lined with little wooden stools where customers savour delicious snacks. Nearby, Hanoi’s water puppets perform to the sounds of traditional music as puppeteers manipulate the puppets standing in waist-deep water.
The ‘Hanoi Hilton’ (Ho Lo Prison) is where American POWs were housed during the Vietnam War. It’s most celebrated ‘guest’ was John McCain who later in life, unsuccessfully contested against Barack Obama for the US Presidency. Visit the preserved body of Uncle Ho Chi Minh, but be prepared to be sombre, respectful and to take no photography. War hounds should check out the Army Museum and the Air Force Museum.
Food For Thought
Food in Vietnam is inexpensive but the prices approach those of KL restaurants in the smarter places in both cities. Thanks to the French colonialists, coffee is treated seriously and made from locally grown beans. Traditionally it’s poured through an aluminium immerser that sits on top of a glass. The place to enjoy the best sort of this coffee is Hapro Café, a semi-open air ambiance at the southern end of Hoan Kiem Lake. Enjoy other local coffee concepts such as Highlands and Trung Nguyen which are both good.
Vietnam’s famous brew is 333 or ba ba ba but the beer they drink in Hanoi is Beer Hanoi. A cheaper alternative is bier hoi which is the local draught beer sold cheaply in streetside bars.
Shopping is another good reason to visit Vietnam and in Hanoi seek out lacquerware, water puppets, revolutionary and conventional pieces of art, interior goods, shoes and clothes. Streets such as Hang Trong, Nha Tho and Hang Kai are good places to start as is almost anywhere in the Old Quarter.
Traffic in all Vietnamese cities is reaching suicidal proportions. It’s a place where bikers are ever present and pedestrians are mostly nervous. A few years ago, the Vietnamese all rode bicycles, but now it’s squadrons of bikes that patrol the streets. Walking around Hoan Kiem Lake and Old Quarter isn’t such a bad idea although hiring a cyclo or trishaw is worth considering. There are thousands on the streets and obtaining the services of a driver is half the fun.
The delightful old dame, the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hotel Hanoi has set the standard for accommodation for decades. Flanked by shade trees, the Metropole is an elegant colonial building of gleaming white set off by green wooden shutters. Other excellent hotels in a variety of price brackets include the Pullman and Mercure Hanoi La Gare. Hotel de l’Opera has got the city’s biggest and softest mattresses. Its La Fée Verte Bar serves cool green cocktails made from Absinthe.
Beyond City Limits
For those with time on their hand, travel overland between the two cities and discover places along the way like Nha Trang, Hué, Hoi An and Danang. A train journey offers a relaxed view of Vietnam, decent food in the dining car, beds in the sleeping cars, and major sights along the way.
Getting There:
AirAsia and Malaysia Airlines fly direct from Kuala Lumpur to both Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi.
Getting About:
For logistical support in travelling in and around both Hanoi and HCMC, try Explorer Tourism Network (www.etn.my) and their Vietnam partners, 365travel (www.365travelvietnam.com).
Where to Stay:
Hanoi – Sofitel Legend Hotel Metropole Hanoi (www. sofitel.com), Mercure Hanoi La Gare (www.mercure.com), MGallery Hotel de l’Opera (www.mgallery.com), and Pullman Hanoi (www.pullman-hanoi.com)
HCMC – Novotel Saigon Centre (www.novotel.com) and Pullman Saigon Centre (www.pullmanhotels.com).
A Word of Caution:
Walking the streets is the best way to get oriented but I should caution visitors to be careful of their belongings. I fell victim of a drive-by motorcycle camera heist in HCMC, so it is best to be careful.
Source: The Expat Magazine February 2014
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