An energetic city of endless skyscrapers, delectable food, stupendous shopping, and must-see cultural touchstones, Hong Kong is truly one of the region’s great travel destinations. Join us as we take to the streets, the rails, and the harbour to explore and enjoy this fascinating Asian city.

Just a short flight away, the dynamic city of Hong Kong is a must-visit destination for any expat living in Malaysia. Truly one of the world’s most fascinating, indefatigable cities, it’s next to impossible to outline all there is to see and do. You’ll never know quite what to expect in Hong Kong, but you can count on a good time. This bustling city hums with action around the clock, buoyed by citizens with an unflagging work ethic and an insatiable desire to get ahead. Laden with history from both the East and the West, Hong Kong is a dynamic window into Chinese culture, offering a glimpse of Eastern sensibilities blended with Western decadence and modernity.

Two of our writers recently visited this vibrant city separately and they bring their experiences to life here for you. First, a bit of background from well-travelled writer Petra O’Neill:

Equipped with a canvas tote bag, I didn’t quite cut it in Hong Kong, one of the world’s ritziest destinations for the well-heeled traveller and these days many of the wealthiest are drawn from neighbouring mainland China. Squeezed in beside me in the express lift that would whisk me to my room on the 54th floor was a young girl, perhaps no older than 14, wearing Chanel from top to toe, carrying multiple large shopping bags – Prada, Fendi, and Chanel among them, for here in Hong Kong, labels matter.

A Shopping Haven, Rich Cultural Heritage and One of the Most Populated Cities in the World

Located on China’s south coast on the Pearl River Delta facing the South China Sea, Hong Kong has long been a magnet for shoppers from all over the world. But Hong Kong also offers a rich cultural heritage that is worth getting to know. Its history began upriver in the city of Guangzhou, where the British began trading with China. While the Chinese initially resisted, Hong Kong was finally opened to trade in 1685, and by the end of the 17th century, the British, French, Dutch, Danes, Swedes, and Americans had gained a firm foothold in the region. Hong Kong Island and Kowloon were ceded to the British after the Chinese were defeated in the Opium Wars. The New Territories were leased to the British for 99 years in 1898, and the colony soon became a thriving commercial centre serving as the main conduit for trade between China and the world. After the handover to China in 1997, Hong Kong, despite much uncertainty, made a smooth transition, strengthening its position as one of the world’s leading financial capitals and a dynamic powerhouse.

A city of over 7 million people, Hong Kong is one of the most densely populated cities in the world. Designer stores, glitzy shopping malls, and skyscrapers that appear to cling precariously to steep slopes stand alongside narrow streets lined with traditional shophouses and while the bustling harbour may be its most familiar image, Buddhist temples, rice paddies, and villages are also part of its identity, the collective whole comprising a dozen islands divided into four main areas; Kowloon, Hong Kong Island, the New Territories, and outlying islands.

Writer Bryan Wawzenek found the myriad transportation options in Hong Kong a grand way to explore and understand the city. He found that using the various modes of transit actually became an important part of his travel experience:

As a harbour city set amidst lush hills – Hong Kong actually translates to “fragrant harbour” – the city’s unique location allows for a staggering variety of public transportation. There are ferries, trolleys, subways, busses, a funicular tram, and even outdoor escalators. During our stay, my wife and I discovered that just getting around Hong Kong is half the fun.

Exciting Activities to Do

One of the most exciting journeys is the ride up (and, hopefully, back down) Victoria Peak, which looms just behind the city’s stretch of skyscrapers. Return tickets will cost you HK$40 (about 17 MYR) for the opportunity to take the steep journey between buildings and, later, tree tops. The route has been servicing passengers since 1888 – but don’t worry, everything has been refurbished multiple times since then.

You can pay extra to enter the Sky Terrace or Madame Tussaud’s at the end of the line, but my wife and I instead chose to take a free, hour-long hike around the peak on a well-constructed path where we encountered the occasional jogger or dog-walker that morning. We were there relatively early (about 8am) to get a panoramic glimpse of Hong Kong before the inevitable haze obscured the stunning view below. For the same reason, some visitors choose to make the trek after dark, when the skyscraper lights cut through the haze. The tram runs from 7am to midnight daily, giving you plenty of time options.

Here’s something that will impress all the folks back home – a trip to Hong Kong allows you the chance to travel on the largest outdoor escalator system in the world. And it’s not just a touristy gimmick: the Central Mid-Levels escalator system was constructed a couple of decades ago to make it easier for commuters to travel the districts’ hilly topography. For that reason, the series of motorized walkways (800 meters in length) runs downhill in the early morning and uphill after 10:30 a.m. You’ll want to time your visit accordingly. It’s not much fun walking up all those streets just to coast back down.

The system passes through narrow streets, above and in between some of the most interesting shops and restaurants in the city. After taking it easy on our 20-minute trek to the top of the thoroughfare, we meandered back down, stopping in clothing, knick-knack and design shops as we walked. We eventually wandered a few blocks northwest of the escalators to 21 Gough Street, the home of Kau Kee. The no-frills establishment has been serving up beef brisket noodles for almost a century. We lined up with the local lunch rush to dine on hearty helpings at tiny tables. The noodles in clear broth are so flavourful that the din of Cantonese, Mandarin, and English is only matched by the unapologetic slurping of patrons.

Petra agrees, having found that getting around Hong Kong, whether by tram or on foot, rather than interrupting her visit or slowing it down, actually enriched it. Here’s her advice:

Discovering and Exploring Hong Kong

To discover Hong Kong, begin in Central District, the financial and business centre, where you can head for Victoria Peak, the highest point (552m) on Hong Kong Island on the legendary Peak Tram built in 1888.

Hong Kong Park, where the Peak Tram departs from is an oasis of green with lily ponds and expansive lawns where you can observe locals performing the graceful movements of Tai Chi. Many historic colonial buildings are located nearby including Flagstaff House built in 1846 now the delightful Museum of Tea Ware. Stroll by St John’s Cathedral, Government House, the Helena May Building, Court of Final Appeal, Old Supreme Court and the Foreign Correspondents Club, just some of the grand buildings to be found here. Central District also has futuristic architecture including the Bank of China Tower a 70-story prism designed by the acclaimed architect I.M. Pei and the towering HSBC building designed by Sir Norman Foster.

Man Mo Temple, on Hollywood Road, dating from the 1840s is the oldest temple in Hong Kong, dedicated to the gods of literature and war, with giant hanging incense coils billowing with fragrant smoke, burned as offerings by worshippers.

Turn down winding Des Voeux Road, Sutherland and Wing Lok Streets to find dried seafood, ginseng root, edible bird’s nests, and herbal medicine. My favourites are Cat Street and Hollywood Road for antiques, curios, Chinese art, and porcelain. SoHo is a lively dining precinct with funky bars and restaurants for those who can muster the energy to kick on in a city that never sleeps.

Catch the delightful double deck timber tram in operation since 1904 to Wan Chai for herbs, traditional Chinese jackets, electronics and antiques. Nearby are upscale funky local designers along Star, Moon, and St Francis Streets together with some great eateries.

Of course, surface streets are just one way to get around, as Bryan discovered. You can also travel by sea or go underground, too, and while there’s much to do on Hong Kong Island itself, Bryan offers some must-see attractions on the waterfront of Kowloon Island, too:

The Legendary Star Ferry and More Shopping and Sight Seeing

No one who visits this harbour city should leave before riding the waves on the legendary Star Ferry, which connects Hong Kong Island and Kowloon. Sure, you can take the subway or drive through underground tunnels, but the Star Ferry has been taking locals back and forth since 1888 and the prices remain rockbottom (HK$2 to 3.50 – or 1 to 1.50 RM – depending on the day and the deck). Plus, you can’t beat the view of both sides from the middle of Victoria Harbour.

After the green-and-white boat drops you off, Kowloon offers plenty for visitors to explore. Shoppers might make a bee-line for Harbour City – which hosts a number of high-end and standard chain stores, including Asia’s largest Toys “R” Us. Movie buffs will want to stroll down the Avenue of Stars, which honours the leading figures in Hong Kong’s famous film industry, including Malaysia’s own Michelle Yeoh, Jackie Chan, and, of course, Bruce Lee, whose statue is a popular spot for tourist photos. Art fans should check out the Hong Kong Museum of Art, which has enough exhibition space to devote real estate to gorgeous, traditional Chinese calligraphy and controversial modern pieces that tell Hong Kong’s story from a modern perspective. And everyone will probably want to stay on the Kowloon side of the harbour for the light/laser show, “A Symphony of Lights,” which draws on Hong Kong’s skyscrapers to create a 10-minute presentation daily at 8pm (weather permitting).

Hong Kong’s MRT

Last – and possibly the most important transportation mode in Hong Kong – is the city’s MTR train system, which encompasses light and heavy rail along with an Airport Express train that serves as the best way to get from Hong Kong International Airport into the frequented areas. It’s also the easiest route to get from the heart of the city to Hong Kong Disneyland. After underperforming for most of its first decade – it debuted in 2005 – HK Disneyland has turned a corner following the rampant expansion of the park in recent years. In addition to carbon copies of Disney favourites such as Space Mountain and Dumbo, the park has grown to include new lands (including the incredibly detailed Toy Story Land and Grizzly Gulch) and innovative attractions.

And this smaller-sized Magic Kingdom is still on the rise with an Iron Man ride is set to open in 2016.

If you’ve crossed the harbour from Hong Kong Island to Kowloon, Petra wraps things up with her take on how to spend some of your time there:

Final Thoughts

In Kowloon, stop by the historic clock tower built in 1921, before proceeding to the Hong Kong Museum of Art, a treasure trove of ceramics, jade, calligraphy, bronzes, and lacquer ware from China. Then head for the shopping precinct of Nathan Road that caters to locals before ending at the food stalls of the Temple Street Night Market, with outdoor stalls offering everything from souvenirs, clothing, accessories, reflexology and fortune telling, seafood and noodle restaurants. Shanghai Street
is one of the city’s oldest streets and Jade Street has 400 or so stalls selling amulets, ornaments, necklaces, and trinkets made from jade. At Canton Road and Ocean Terminal, you’ll find chic designer label boutiques and high-end shops aplenty.

Perched on the 56th floor of the Shangri-La Hotel’s Club Lounge, I enjoyed watching the twinkling lights reflected off the water of one of the world’s great harbours with sweeping views across the city, a vast sea of skyscrapers. But alas, it was time to go home. As I pulled my wheelie bag along to catch the airport bus, a chauffeur-driven black Mercedes drove past with the young Chinese girl I had met in the lift, barely visible beneath the piles of shopping bags around her.

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GETTING THERE

There are many flights from different carriers to Hong Kong International Airport (HKG). Flights from KL to HK are just under four hours.

HELPFUL HINTS

Hong Kong is in the same time zone as Kuala Lumpur. The unit of currency is the Hong Kong Dollar (HKD) and the exchange rate is currently 2.40 HKD per ringgit.

Hong Kong offers visitor visas for most nationalities ranging in duration from seven to 180 days. Virtually all Western nationals (including the US, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, the UK, and EU countries), as well as Malaysians, can enjoy visa-free entry for 90 days (180 days for British citizens).

Tap water is generally safe to drink in Hong Kong, although some older buildings have had issues with rust contamination.

For the most part, English is widely used. In certain off-the-beatenpath situations, a few phrases of Cantonese might be helpful.

Electricity is 220V, 50hz with the same British-style plugs found in Malaysia. Some hotel bathrooms have 110V outlets, too.

Hong Kong is an extremely safe city with a low crime rate. As in any big city, travellers should use common sense in big crowds and be cautious late at night.

Written by Petra O’Neill and Bryan Wawzenek.

Source: The Expat Magazine July 2014

Read more:

• The Mystical Curiosities of Hong Kong
• Book Review: Tuttle Travel Pack: Hong Kong
• Hong Kong and Macau; A Dovetail of Two Cities

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