Emerging and evolving at a furious pace, Saigon has in recent years seen a tide of progress sweeping the city. Petra O’Neill visited again and, to her delight, found that despite this surge of development, much of the city’s character and charm still remains unchanged.

Ho Chi Minh City, or Saigon as most locals call it, is a powerhouse, a city that never sleeps, where wealth flashes by in black Mercedes sedans, men sport American-style shades, and slender elegant women wear áo dàis paired with designer accessories. Vietnam’s largest city exudes a youthful energy, unsurprising given that over half of its eight million inhabitants are under 35.

There is no better way of feeling you know Saigon that to confidently stride across tree-lined boulevards choked with traffic, a constant flow of motorbikes and cars that have scant regard for pedestrians, crossings, or lights, though in the intervening period since my last visit, the traffic volume has accelerated, there being little sign of the bicycles or cyclo drivers that once inhabited the streets.

Standing outside the Majestic Hotel at the beginning of Dong Khoi, I waited for a space to open wide enough to make it across, but the thick and seemingly impenetrable stampede of roaring motorbikes led me to shadow a local and walk alongside him when he dared to stride across.

Developing at a seemingly breakneck pace, new additions are altering the face of the city: towering office buildings, a subway under construction, and shopping malls filled with designer brands. And while some heritage buildings have been bulldozed, much of the charm of Saigon remains… bastions of elegant Art Deco and French colonial architecture and wide boulevards lined with tamarind, banyan, and flowering flame trees.

Exploring the city

Begin your tour of Saigon at the sinuous Saigon River that supports the life of the city with a steady stream of freighters that come and go to the South China Sea. Leading towards it and running through the centre of the city, Dong Khoi, formerly known as Rue Catinat offers high-end clothing by local designers, lacquerware, and silk.

Perhaps the most beautiful street in Southeast Asia, it is flanked by historic grand hotels and civic buildings, including the ornate Saigon Opera House, the Cathedral of Notre Dame, and the Central Post Office, which was designed by Gustave Eiffel.

Inside, beneath the domed roof is a large portrait of Ho Chi Minh. The Continental and Majestic Hotels formed the backdrop for Graham Greene’s classic novel The Quiet American set during Vietnam’s war of independence from France, and nearby, the Rex Hotel was where journalists decamped during the Vietnam War. Today its rooftop café offers a bird’s-eye view of the throngs of traffic and pedestrians crowding the sprawling intersection below, and is well worth a visit.

Most places of interest are contained within the city centre known as Districts 1 and 3, close enough to discover on foot. The War Remnants Museum recounts the story and brutality of the Vietnam War with harrowing photographic images and plenty of artifacts, including American tanks and aircraft captured during the conflict.

The opulent Reunification Palace, the former home of the South Vietnamese President, remains virtually untouched since April 30, 1975, when a North Vietnamese tank crashed through its gates, signifying the end of the war.

The History Museum in a beautiful French colonial building includes items from the Cham and Khmer civilisations while artworks are on display at the Fine Arts Museum housed in a striking yellow and white colonial mansion. Other sites include parks and pagodas, including the Emperor of Jade Pagoda, built in 1909, full of statues and beguiling wafts of burning incense.

Markets and cafes

While there are a staggering number of stalls at Bến Thành Market (in District 1) brimming with souvenirs, first check the fixed price government-regulated section as prices can be pumped up for the unwary tourist, and haggling is still unlikely to result in a bargain. Preferable are the nearby boutiques along Le Loi where you’ll find quality funky clothing, unique homewares, restaurants, and no shortage of great coffee.

Rise above the din of rush hour by heading to one of the city’s rooftop bars that provide views of the city’s skyline. The Eon Heli Bar is in the city’s tallest building, while others include Shri, Chill Skybar, and the stylish rooftop bar at the Hotel des Arts Saigon.

Street side stalls are everywhere remaining open throughout the night offering local favourites including phở, a large fragrant steaming bowl of noodle soup, bún thịt nướng made of cold vermicelli noodles with herbs, pork and salad and bánh xèo, a crispy fried pancake.

Saigon has a wealth of culinary experiences on offer from French and Italian bistros to more Asian-focused restaurants, along with some Vietnamese delicacies you may not want to try, such as fertilised duck eggs and deep-fried snake.

Breakfast is a treat at one of the many cafés with freshly baked baguettes and thick strong coffee brewed over a metal drip filter called a cà phê phin that is often served with condensed milk. Indeed, since its introduction in the 19th century, Vietnam has become one of the world’s leading coffee producers.

Tours and treats

Cholon, the city’s ancient Chinatown, is a short taxi ride west of the city centre with many ornately decorated temples, including Thiên Hậu Pagoda and Chua Quan Am. For those interested in the Chinese influence on this Vietnamese city, this is a good place to visit.

Beyond Saigon, popular day tours include the Mekong Delta, Vietnam’s agricultural heartland, a fascinating labyrinth of waterways with floating markets, sampans, orchards, and rice paddies.

The Cu Chi tunnels – a network of interconnecting underground passageways – were used by the Vietcong in numerous military campaigns during the Vietnam War.

The Cao Dai temple at Tay Ninh incorporates aspects of Taoism, Buddhism, Confucianism, and Catholicism and was built between 1933 and 1955.

Walking along Le Loi, I paused to buy plump dragonfruits and custard apples, adding them to the treats I’d bought from the market, including packets of coconut candy.

I recalled checking into the Majestic Hotel on my first visit to Saigon many years ago. Fatigued after travelling overland from Cambodia, I waited in line while two women refused to take their key as the room was in the old rather than the new wing. I offered them mine.

Shrugging his shoulders, the porter explained as he walked me down the long wide corridor, tonight the hotel was full, they had no other room to give those guests, but to upgrade them to a suite and as he flung open the doors he said, “Tonight it shall be yours.”

And there beyond the four poster beds and Juliette balconies was the Saigon River below. I’d arrived to live the line from The Quiet American: “Seven o’clock and cocktail time on the roof of the Majestic, with a wind from the Saigon River.” Magic.

Travel Tips

Getting there

Malaysia Airlines, Jetstar, and AirAsia all fly from Kuala Lumpur to Ho Chi Minh City (SGN). Many cruise ships include Saigon in itineraries that generally begin or end in Hong Kong.

Getting around

Taxis and motorbike taxis are plentiful but not always hassle-free. Try Vinasun for short trips at reasonable fares and Mailinh Express for city to city. The subway is nearing completion.

Where to stay

The charming Majestic Hotel on Dong Khoi overlooks the Saigon River. Request a room in the old wing with original hardwood floors and high ceilings. Nostalgia buffs should also visit the Continental and Rex Hotels. The Hotel des Arts Saigon McGallery Collection combines contemporary and classic design elements and provides top notch service. The Park Hyatt Saigon, Caravelle, InterContinental, and Sheraton Saigon are other upmarket offerings.

Moderate hotels include the unprepossessing Bong Sen Hotel, Huong Sen, and Kimdo Royal City. The Spring Hotel is a great budget choice.

Dining

Saigon has a wealth of culinary experiences on offer and is famous for its phở with popular chains, such as Pho24 and Pho 2000 providing a more standardised version, though you can’t beat family-run restaurants and street stalls for authentic local fare. At Xu, contemporary and traditional dishes are paired with Kiwi and Australian wines by Bien Nguyen, a chef who returned to Vietnam from Australia.

Great Vietnamese coffee and French colonial/fusion architecture combine at L’Usine, opened by a group of expat friends and housed in a grand building built in the 1890s, with a second outlet off Le Loi.

Shopping

In a country where custom-made clothing is affordable, quality tailors are numerous. For best results, bring clothing you want replicated and unless you’re after silk, bring along your own fabric allowing time for several fittings. Ladies, unless you are as lithe as the local women, áo dàis may disappoint.

Treat yourself to a manicure and pedicure at the shops that are everywhere or visit one of the high end spas that offer a range of body treatments including My Spa or Spa Authentic.

Nightlife

Saigon has a reputation for its energetic bar scene. Head for one of the high spots including Eon Heli Bar, Chill Sky Bar, Shri, the rooftop bar of the Hotel des Arts Saigon or the top floor of the Caravelle Hotel. The Dong Khoi area is also home to several live-music venues.

Viaa requirements

Check if you need a visa for entry and preferably arrange this beforehand to avoid getting caught in a long queue at the airport. If you are arriving on a cruise ship, check with the cruise line as the visa may be processed onboard for a lesser fee.