Travel

Travelling from Phuket to Krabi by Road

Streets in Krabi’s Ao Nang Beach are lined with bars and restaurants
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If you want to fly into one airport in Thailand and depart from another, hiring a car to travel between the two is not that complicated, and adds a fresh angle to the trip.

Last year, some 4.6 million tourists from Malaysia crossed into neighbouring Thailand for a holiday. Expats living here in Malaysia would bolster that, making Thailand the most visited holiday destination in the region for those living in Malaysia.

Thailand never ceases to amaze, and it’s easy to see why it holds such appeal. Having been to the kingdom on many occasions, I wanted to return but to try something different on my week-long holiday. Phuket and Krabi in the south of the country are very popular with holidaymakers – perhaps too popular for my requirements – so I did some research and realised that I could fly into one destination and out of the other, as both airports are serviced by daily flights on AirAsia. Khao Lak was also of interest, so a plan was hatched to stay in Phuket, Khao Lak, and Krabi and hire a car to travel between the three destinations.

Enjoying seafood is one of the great delights in visiting Thailand

PHUKET

For those who haven’t visited Phuket yet, be aware that it is a big island and popular with global travellers, with its airport located in the northwest of the island. Patong Beach is very popular, as is much of the west coast with its long beaches and numerous deluxe and luxurious resorts.

My plan was to relax for a few days and appreciate the tropical weather and beaches of Phuket without all the clutter and congestion that is typical of the island’s main beaches. As I was heading northward, off the island to Khao Lak, it made good sense to choose a resort in this part of the island. After collecting my rental car directly from the airport, I turned north rather than south, where most travellers head. One of the big attractions of resorts such as the Anantara Mai Khao Phuket Resort is that it is just a 15-minute drive from the airport.

Anantara Mai Khao Pool Villa (Phuket)

Taking the earliest AirAsia flight meant that I was in Phuket for breakfast and relaxing at the resort not long after. This exclusive all-pool villa resort is one of Phuket’s northernmost properties and is a place where you come to stay put, enjoy the privacy of your pool villa, and simply relax. It is important to note that there are two Anantara properties in Phuket (the other being Anantara Layan), so make sure you have the correct property.

The hotel’s signature dining outlet, Sea.Fire.Salt., offers delicious seafood and Thai-inspired entrées at its beachfront location. They have a salt sommelier here for those who order a cut of beef and need that essential condiment to bring out the meat’s full flavour. Breakfast was served in La Sala, and I must say this was a rather grand affair worth allocating some extra time; after all, it was a holiday. The Tasting Room offers the services of its wine guru to lead wine tasting events, or paired wine dinners.

Enjoy the landscaped lagoons from villas at Anantara Mai Khao Pool Villa, Phuket

KHAO LAK

After two days of relaxing at the Anantara, it was time to pack the car and drive north to Khao Lak, which I had never visited but had heard so much about. Regulars told me it was like the Phuket of old, laid-back, and very relaxing, with some excellent resorts.

My research suggested I should check into the JW Marriott Khao Lak. My first impressions of Khao Lak were most favourable with the beachfront properties located well off the main road, down narrow, winding roads. The Marriott appealed because it was directly on the beach facing westward and offered so many activities that, in one week, I wouldn’t complete them all.

Guests at the Marriott Khao Lak can enjoy swim up pool access

Interestingly, I was more interested in just relaxing, but it was comforting to know that I could choose a monocultivar olive oil dégustation with the Italian chef had I been so inclined, a cocktail class with the resort’s mixologist, coconut soap-making, a picnic in the gardens, or even an interesting herb selection visit to the JW Garden with a chef. I was so exhausted after perusing the options, I just settled on dining, drinking, swimming, and relaxing in my deluxe swim-up room.

My interest in Khao Lak was aroused back in December 2004, when the disastrous Indian Ocean tsunami wiped out many of the coastal resorts in the area. While the locals cannot forget this day, they have moved on, so it was with mixed feelings that I chose to visit the Ban Namkhem Tsunami Museum. I’m glad that I did, as it is a small but well-laid-out museum that is respectful of those who lost their lives and informative for those who remember or need to be reminded of the might of nature. Two large fishing boats relocated to the site are a chilling reminder of that disastrous December 26 day that, somewhat startlingly, took place a full 20 years ago.

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Marooned boats from the 2004 tsunami at Ban Namkhem Tsunami Museum

Another pleasant discovery was the small town of Takuapa. Had I not known I was in Thailand, I would have thought I was walking around the streets of Ipoh or some small heritage town in Perak, as the architecture is very similar. The history is similar too, as Takuapa came into existence when tin was discovered here in the 19th century. This river port town was once a prosperous settlement that is now undergoing a resurgence as a new generation of entrepreneurs has converted old shoplots into smart restaurants, bars, boutique hotels and shops. Sadly, my time was limited, but a mental note has been filed away to return and stay here and explore all that it has to offer.

The streetscapes of Kakuapa are similar to those of many Malaysian towns
Kakuapa streetside café

James Bond Island has always fascinated me, but I was told of an alternative that was more accessible on my road journey from Khao Lak to Krabi. Those in the know suggested I visit Laem Sak and take a boat trip from there to admire the limestone formations that have put this part of the Andaman Sea on the map. The side trip was most enjoyable, as the boat trip was visually exciting, the floating fish farms were interesting, and the Buddhist temple of Wat Mahathat at Laem Sak was architecturally fascinating.

The views from Wat Mahathat across the Andaman Sea are impressive

KRABI

A moderately successful movie, The Beach, introduced movie audiences to the delights of Thai travel. In the movie, adapted from the Alex Garland novel, young backpackers set out in search of paradise, or at least, the closest the kingdom could come to Nirvana. Thousands have set off each day with the same aim, and it’s my experience that once you discover paradise, it’s time to move on, as thousands of other travellers have also made the same discovery. Maya Bay, portrayed in the movie, became so crowded a few years ago, that the authorities had to shut it down as it was literally being loved to death. More stringent guidelines are now in place.

It’s important to recognise that there is Krabi, the town, and Krabi, the beaches. While the riverside town is rather pleasant, especially Wat Kaeo Korawaram Temple, it’s the beaches that should be in your sights. Being mobile with my own car also helped, as the coastal resort strip is quite long.

Fishing boat off Krabi

Krabi and beaches centred on Ao Nang, and to state that Krabi has been discovered is an understatement. The pioneering backpackers portrayed in The Beach spread the word about Krabi’s numerous tourism assets, so now modern-day Krabi has numerous resort options and the associated tourist services so typical of Thai seaside resorts.

Ao Nang is a 2-km-long expanse of sand, which, like most in this part of the Andaman Sea, is tidal, so at low tide, especially, the beach is very shallow. However, swaying palm and casuarina trees along the beachfront and the setting sun combine to create a very alluring setting. The busy main road here is lined with seafood restaurants, bars, beachside resorts, coffeeshops and shops. While there are spa facilities everywhere, I had heard about a new spa resort development to the south of Krabi, so I drove to Amataya Wellness for a massage and relaxation in the saltwater pools here. There are big plans for this property, with a hospital, resort, therapeutic treatments, and other holistic lifestyle options.

Ao Nang Beach is a popular venue for the daily sunset

The neighbouring Railay Beach is accessible by boat, while those to the north are sparsely crowded, with some, like the Banyan Tree, having direct beachfront access. The beaches and resorts in the northern part of Krabi are larger, have comprehensive facilities, and are popular with those who want to escape the Ao Nang clutter.

It helped to be mobile, and my resort of choice was the Sofitel, a 20-minute drive north of Ao Nang. While it doesn’t have direct access to Klong Muang Beach, it’s just a short walk across a rural road to the sand. The Sofitel appeals because it has a huge pool, many activities, great rooms and facilities, and a respectable nine-hole golf course with few golfers on the course. Many rooms overlook the sea, and some have direct swim-up room access.

Watersports, Koh Hong

Despite the pleasant beaches, many tourists to this part of the world take an excursion to one of several in the Andaman Sea. The most popular islands (koh in Thai) are Poda, Kai, Hong, and Tub. Koh Hong, located a short boat ride from the Sofitel, is the island of choice for guests in the resort, and I enjoyed a full day here relaxing along a shaded, tree-lined beach while swimming in the clear water.

The region’s towering limestone cliffs and islands scattered across turquoise waters are most appealing. My driving holiday enabled me to see three resort destinations – enjoying the best of each – and stop and look at attractions along the way.

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TRAVEL FILE

Getting There

There are direct flights on AirAsia (airasia.com) from KLIA2 to both Krabi and Phuket International Airports, with a flying time of just a little over an hour. Krabi is located half-way between Phuket and Hat Yai on the Andaman Sea side of Thailand. Phuket is a three-hour drive to the west, and the reason this road trip was undertaken was because it is possible to combine the two destinations on an extended holiday.

Getting Around

Leading car rental companies operate from both airports, and it is possible to take the car from one airport and drop it off at the other. A valid license is all that is required. Fuel prices in Thailand are more expensive than in Malaysia, but the driving conditions are similar, with the route from Phuket to Krabi being mostly on two-lane roads. If you are travelling in a small group and want to be driven in a van, I suggest you contact Senses Tour (sensestour.com) in Krabi to make all the arrangements.

Where to Stay

Anantara Mai Khao Phuket Villas (anantara.com), JW Marriott Khao Lak Resort and Spa (marriott.com), and Sofitel Krabi Phokeethra Golf and Spa Resort (sofitel.com).





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