Whether you’ve been doing a bit of festive-seeking or want to celebrate Deepavali out of your annual hometown routine, Penang Little India welcomes you with open arms.

Every state in Malaysia has its own ‘Little India,’ an ethnic Indian enclave considered as a nexus of tradition and culture. From spices to sounds, tastes to textiles, and everything in between, this area transports you immediately to the Indian subcontinent. Over the years, Penang Little India has built and nurtured a reputation as the place to be to celebrate the Festival of Lights.

While it is accessible from all four directions, a towering arch on Market Street is the ideal starting point for the full-of-life region. Standing at 12.72 m tall, the bright yellow arch is designed with traditional shapes and patterns derived from elements found across Little India. Upon stepping past the welcome sign, every colour you can imagine graces everything from sweets to sarees, accompanied by the thumping Tamil beats.

ORIGINS OF PENANG LITTLE INDIA

It’s easy to note that this enclave is different from the rest of the famous Little Indias in Malaysia. Since it is located at the heart of Penang Heritage Zone, numerous buildings are steeped in pre-independence history. The location dates back to the 18th century when Indian immigrants settled here during British governance. They were brought to work in rubber plantations, and as the Indian community grew, so did the cultural significance of the region.

The businesses boomed so much that Market Street was once called ‘Kadai Teru,’ translating as the Street of Shops. Considering the large population of Tamils in the area, the British named the area as “Chola Place” and “Little Madras”. Several other Indian communities like Malayalees, Telugu and Gujaratis arrived later. Geoge Town became a popular stop for Indians on their way to work in Kuala Lumpur and plantations, however, some stayed on and contributed to the gradual establishment of Little Madras. With the right eyes, one can also spot the traces of Japanese occupation during the Second World War. During the Japanese era, the economic activities took a dip and several Japanese-owned shops opened along China Street and King Street.

AURA OF LIGHTS

Deepavali, also known as Diwali, is one of the biggest and most important festivals for the Hindus. The celebration gets its name from deepa, which means light and avali, which denotes a row; therefore, Indians would light rows of earthen lamps outside their house in a symbolic gesture to end the darkness. In South India, the festival celebrates the victory of Lord Krishna over the demon Narakusura, whereas North Indians rejoice in the return of Lord Ram to Ayodhya after defeating King Ravana.

The weeks leading up to Deepavali see the entire area brim like a living lantern. Handcrafted clay lamps are the most traditional lamps for Deepavali, both in their natural form and painted with intricate designs. It will be filled with oil or ghee and a cotton wick for lighting. There are also lamps made from brass, copper and LED, catering to different preferences. Businesses across Penang Little India have their own Deepavali decorations on their façade, weighing up an aesthetic appeal for customers. Be it as a souvenir or to grace your own home, make your way to Jayam Spice Mart, Nahcyar Stores or RS Superstore to get your memorable Deepavali lamps.

FLOWERS, CRAFTS, AND BOOKS

If there are lamps, there are flowers. Fresh flowers are significant for Deepavali, particularly those festooned as garlands. Along Pitt Street lies a stretch of Indian florists lining up a wealth of garlands and flowers. From the fragrant jasmine to champaka, chrysanthemum, and carnations, the options are both colourful and boundless. These garlands are traditionally made for Hindu deities and festivals like Deepavali. Garland-making skills were brought to Penang by Indian immigrants and, like many such traditional things, are usually passed down from generation to generation.

Since Deepavali is regarded as a victory, the Hindus pull out all the stops for decorations. Shop for Kolam (traditional rice flour art), trinkets, peacock feathers, lanterns, and artworks at wallet-friendly prices. R&S Handicrafts (Kanganam Trading) has been offering exquisite items from India such as alloy statues, charms and handicrafts since 1956. Currently under the helm of the third-generation successor, Mr Ghirish, their collections continue to lure art and religious lovers. The owner’s willingness to explain each item and its sacred understanding keeps the locals returning.

If you’re not alert while strolling along China Street, you may walk right past Kalaivani’s Books Centre. This hidden shop, often fringed by bright garlands at the front, is a bookstore that has books about spirituality, motivation and culture. The vintage ambience flaunts much peace and tranquillity that book lovers seek for. Whether it’s to keep you company on a bus ride, or simply understand more about the Tamil culture and beliefs, you have the right book to pick.

AUTHENTIC SWEETS AND SNACKS

In Indian households, the Deepavali season begins when vintage stainless steel drum containers are cleaned and stacked to store murukku. This spiral-shaped snack originates from Tamil Nadu, India, and is known for its resoundingly crunchy texture. It is usually made from a combination of rice flour and urad dal bean flour, twisted into coil-like patterns, and deep-fried in oil. Murukkus come in various shapes and to hit a distinctive flavour difference, some shops add chilli powder, garlic powder, and onion powder. Nevertheless, Woodlands Vegetarian Restaurant is a household name that sticks to authentic murukkus.

Important to note, though, is that murukku-making is a tradition that brings together the entire family to get the job done – undoubtedly, among the most enjoyable and exciting parts of Deepavali. Therefore, families would get their rice flour blended at Sri Kaleespari Grinding Mill, the last-standing spice mill. The history of the mill is very much alive on its walls, in half-century-old spice grinding machines from Germany and India, and in an array of timeworn utensils. Take in the heady aromas and watch the spices being powdered down into separate buckets for chilli, coriander, rice, and any other Indian spice that you can imagine. This building also serves as a reminder of Penang’s past as a spice hub in the region. Not only do you get to see the grinding processes, but also connect the communities to keep traditional family cooking alive.

If you think the savoury side has won you over, wait till you set your eyes on the Indian sweets in Penang Little India. Make your way to KVM Thulasiraman, an established sweet shop known for their Palkova, Mysore Pak, and Halwa with cashew nuts. They don’t cut any corners when it comes to using top-quality ghee, and each sweet has its own flavour and texture triumph. If you are a big fan of Laddus (a spherical sweet famous in both South and North India), Devis Muruku Mixture is the place to be. Tucked in a small corner along Market Street, this stall operated by the jovial Ms Devi herself, is easily spotted as locals make a beeline for their traditional sweets and spice-laden mixtures. Further down lies Vickram Snacks & Sweets, a family-run stall that is piled up with Indian candies, snacks, and chips. Since the bites come in small packets, one can mix and match to their liking. One sweet not to be missed is their Jilebi. This crispy, pretzel-like sweet is freshly fried in hot oil and once cooled, soaked in sugar syrup. Apart from their visual appeal, sweets are essential for the Hindus on Deepavali as they are called naivedya, offerings to God as a symbol of love and gratitude.

FESTIVE EXUBERANCE OF SAREES

When it comes to traditional clothing, sometimes all you want is to be spoilt for choice, and for that, Penang Little India is a colour-splashed heaven. The entire neighbourhood is bustling with a kaleidoscope range of sarees, salwar kameez, kurtas, and dhotis, available at bargain prices. From the posh silk and intricate designs of Kanchipuram sarees to the cream-coloured Kasavu saree of Kerala, the Banarasi saree’s exquisite craftsmanship and more, you can discover regions of India one saree at a time.

Among the big names are Rudtra Fashion Centre, Anita Sarees Centre, and Chennai Silk Palace. If you are looking to flaunt Indian beauty for only a day or two, head to Saimika Trends to get elegant lehengas for rental. Deck up the classic appearance with matching footwear, embroidered handbags, and striking ornaments. Even better, get a henna tattoo, which is made from dried henna plant leaves, on the palms, hands, and legs. These henna designs are synonymous with celebrations like Deepavali. It may be a temporary tattoo, but is sure to leave a lasting impression.

The two weeks leading up to the celebration show Penang Little India in all its glory. However, like any celebration, Deepavali Eve boasts numerous fireworks lighting up the night sky. The vibrancy of the music, colours, and characters throughout the area etches into one’s memory forever. There are plenty of reasons to celebrate the Festival of Lights – and Penang Little India is one of them.