Escape the city and head to Bukit Tinggi’s Berjaya Hills, where cooler climes, French-inspired architecture, and serene forests offer the perfect retreat just an hour from Kuala Lumpur.

In the colonial era, the cooler high mountains of the South and Southeast Asia region were the only places people could retreat to escape the heat and humidity of the lowlands. These retreats were called hill stations and were developed as there were few other options for escaping from the hotter tropical lowlands. The first one in the region appeared on Penang Hill in 1787 and then in places as widespread as Shimla (India), Dalat (French Indochina, and now Vietnam), and Bogor (Java).

Here in Malaysia, hill retreats were also developed in Fraser’s Hill, Cameron Highlands, and Bukit Larut (Maxwell Hill). Destinations like Genting Highlands and Bukit Tinggi (Berjaya Hills) were developed much later. Over my years of travel throughout the region, I’ve been fascinated by the history of these hill stations and the services they once provided to expatriates and well-to-do locals who were unable to jet off to cooler climates as is the custom now with many travellers.

So, any chance to relax in a cooler climate is always welcomed, and when the opportunity arose to visit Bukit Tinggi, less than an hour’s drive from Kuala Lumpur, I eagerly accepted.

A FORESTED ESCAPE

Bukit Tinggi is an easy trip from KL, and the traffic shouldn’t be too much of a problem early morning. The area as a whole is a great place for birdwatchers, and in general, much of it is freely accessible and you don’t really need a guide as it’s a small site with clear, wide paths and lots of overlooks (worthwhile for eye-level views of canopy species).

For the specific Berjaya Hills area, however, access is tricky first thing if you’re not staying at one of the properties there. There is indeed a barrier at the start of the access road and nowhere convenient to leave your car. Day-use entry is available, though, and the modest fee includes entry to some of the area’s attractions, so that’s an option if you’re not staying overnight.

I was, though, and The Chateau Spa & Wellness at Bukit Tinggi, my choice of accommodation, captured my attention for several reasons apart from it being situated on a cool mountain summit. It is also part of the Berjaya Hills Resort which is revolves around Colmar Tropicale, a replica of the town of Colmar in Alsace, France. This means that the architecture is French-inspired, with The Chateau based on an 18th-century castle called Château du Haut-Koenigsbourg, a medieval landmark located in Orschwilla, Alsace.

A shuttle service from Berjaya Times Square is available, and I elected to make use of this. The resort’s minivan departed from Berjaya Times Square in downtown Kuala Lumpur, and before long, we were nearly there! The cool air was noticeable as soon as we began driving up the winding road from the main highway. Located high up in the Titiwangsa Range, the resort is just a 50-minute drive from the capital. (It’s worth noting that visitors arriving from Singapore can seamlessly connect to the resort’s shuttle, with Berjaya Times Square being a hub for some long-distance coaches.)  

Set in the forested hills, The Chateau offers a very relaxing getaway where guests can stay in a tranquil setting enveloped by montane forests. Rooms are also available in the adjoining Colmar Tropicale, but it’s my recommendation to pay the extra to enjoy the peace and quiet of The Chateau.

Berjaya Hills is perched 800 m above sea level to ensure a refreshing setting that contrasts markedly with Kuala Lumpur. I was amazed that the temperature dropped about 10°C from when we departed Kuala Lumpur. I entered the resort lobby and noted that it was just 21°C, while in Kuala Lumpur it was 31°C. It not only felt cool, but it also looked ethereal, as low clouds and mist lingered in the valley during the whole weekend.

STAY AND PLAY

The area offers a wide range of facilities and activities guaranteed to make a visit enjoyable. For example, with a focus on creating an atmosphere of relaxation and luxury, The Chateau resort features landscaped gardens, fountains, and pathways that encourage guests to explore the hills. The design is influenced by French provincial aesthetics, which is reflected in the elegant décor of soft, neutral colours and classic furnishings. For those who prefer to stay around the resort, there’s a swimming pool, a fitness centre, a soothing spa, and an early morning yoga class.

Once at Berjaya Hills, guests can either walk or catch regular shuttles to the various attractions. The proximity of The Chateau to Colmar Tropicale, the Japanese Village, and other destinations makes it a convenient base for exploration. Colmar Tropicale, a French-themed village, resembles the town of Colmar in Alsace, France.

While this property may not be for everyone, I enjoyed walking around its main square while watching local families participating in a variety of recreational pursuits (that appeared more Malaysian than French, it must be added).

The cool breezes and forested setting provide ideal conditions for outdoor pursuits like walking, photography, and enjoying all that nature provides. Whether you’re relaxing by the pool, exploring the gardens, or enjoying a meal, the cool air makes it all worthwhile. While I saw several guests using the pool, I decided it would be a little too cool for my liking.

Visitors can also add some adventure to their weekend with an adventure park offering several thrilling activities. Activities included a rock wall, a flying fox, abseiling, a high-rope obstacle course, and a canopy bridge for getting close to the plants that thrive high up in the rainforest canopy.

If all the activities have you working up an appetite, The Chateau has two restaurants, room service, a bar, and a dedicated afternoon tea lounge to help you refuel while you relax and indulge in a selection of international and local dishes that are complemented by a compact beverage list. L’assiette offers two different menus – an unusual combination of French-inspired dishes alongside a selection of Northern Indian favourites.

The casual La Vie, overlooking the pool, is where breakfast, all-day dining and snacks are served. I especially enjoyed lunch here one day with a classic chicken cordon bleu, and a second time with a terrific cheeseburger and fries.

Another dining indulgence is afternoon tea served in the Belle Vue Tea Room. The selection of sweet and savoury treats is extensive, with enough treats for two to indulge. While not normally an afternoon tea person, I can highly recommend this activity, but slot in some exercise afterwards to work off the extra calories.

FOR THE BIRDS

As mentioned, birdwatching here can be a rewarding pursuit. I saw a few unusual species while strolling around the lovely Japanese Village with its nicely manicured gardens, a flowing stream with small waterfalls, and a tea house. Avid birders, however, will want to look elsewhere with rather less human activity.

I visited two years ago and, on that occasion, stayed at the Colmar Tropicale and hiked up early in the morning (a reasonable ascent). It was quite birdy with the Sunda Scimitar-Babbler being the best addition to the pheasants. I also recorded specialties like Sooty and Yellow-crowned Barbets and the Red-bearded Bee-eater.

I saw a beautiful pair of great hornbills swooshing overhead, and heard the sultan tit and orange breasted trogon, but couldn’t see them. There were also plenty of birds which I wasn’t immediately able to identify!

A stay in Berjaya Hills combines the beauty of forested hills with upscale accommodation and attentive service at The Chateau. The mild, refreshing weather encouraged me to exercise, and it also provided a calm atmosphere that is ideal for outdoor activities, wellness pursuits, or simply to flee the chaos of the city and recharge the batteries.

Additional text and photos by Chad Merchant