Rice is so effortlessly and ubiquitously interwoven into Asian life that it is often taken for granted, but if you do a deeper dive, you’ll discover that this humble grain gives life to virtually all Asian cultures.

Asia and rice are synonymous, and most Asian nations have been growing and harvesting the cereal for many centuries in order to sustain life. Rice cultivation has helped shape various Asian cultures, religions, traditions, and identities throughout recorded history.

Asian life would be very different without rice. Rice has many uses and can be boiled, fried, or ground into flour for eating around the clock. More than 50% of the world’s population eats it as a staple, and it is grown under different climatic conditions in countries from Switzerland to Australia.

Rice is normally eaten as an accompaniment to many dishes, but trendsetters can even order rice milk cappuccinos. Rice is essential for dishes like biryani, sushi, and risotto, and it is brewed, distilled, and fermented to make beer, rice wine, tuak, sake, and soju.

RICE, THE GRAIN

Rice is the seed of a grass species, mostly Oryza sativa (Asian rice). There is an African variety, plus those of different genera, commonly referred to as wild rice. This cereal grain is a dietary staple for 52% of the world’s population, most of whom live in Asia. After sugarcane and maize (corn), rice is the third-largest crop cultivated on the planet.

However, rice is arguably the most important food crop, as the other two have multiple uses beyond food. Some 20% of human calorific intake is derived from rice. Put simply, rice is an important commodity, and nothing has been more instrumental for the explosive population growth in Asia. 

Once a wild grass, its potential was first realized some 8,000 years ago when it was domesticated in China’s Yangtze Valley. This farming practice spread throughout Asia, while in Africa, another grass species (Oryza glaberrima) was independently cultivated. 

Many different types of rice are now cultivated, from short grain to long grain, plus varieties referred to as fragrant (aromatic), upland, lowland, brown, white, red, white, purple, and sticky (glutinous) rice, with most people having a preference for one or another.

Each country in Asia seems to have its own signature rice dish that is eagerly devoured by locals and curious visitors. Travel is enhanced by dishes such as nasi lemak (Malaysia), nasi goreng (Indonesia), khao tom (Thailand), cơm tấm (Vietnam), sushi (Japan), Hainanese chicken rice (Singapore), and champorado (Philippines). These can be enjoyed with rice-derived adult beverages such as tuak (a Bornean longhouse rice wine), sake, soju, and even some beers that include rice as an essential ingredient.

These days, rice is much more than an edible commodity. Several isolated regional rice terraces have been developed as agrotourism locations that attract visitors who come to admire the sights and capture Instagram-worthy moments to share with their social media audience. Some have been recognized by UNESCO as global cultural sites, and several of these are detailed below.

HARNESSING WATER TO FEED THE WORLD

As in all agriculture, water is important for rice cultivation. Civilizations developed through their ability to harness and distribute water, with one of the best examples of an early hydrological society being that which the Khmers developed around Angkor in present-day Cambodia.

Rice is mostly cultivated in flooded fields (padi), with irrigation commonly adopted. Angkor, for example, was based upon an intricate network of canals and dams (known as barays) that channelled water from the Kulim Mountains to the fertile lowlands dotted with temples. From here, the water flowed into the Siem Reap River and ultimately to the wondrous Tonlé Sap, the region’s largest inland lake.

Rice is an annual crop, but in some areas of the tropics, there are two growing cycles per year (three in parts of Japan, as well as Bali). Rice cultivation is well-suited to the tropics because of the warm temperatures and abundance of water. However, rice can also be grown in mountainous regions in a network of terraces and bunds that store water. Upland rice requires greater farmer intervention in order to remove competing weeds during the growing cycle.

Land is prepared by ploughing and fertilizing. In the past, the latter was supplied by water buffalo, but now artificial nutrients are normally added. The traditional method for cultivating rice is to flood fields and plant seedlings in the mud and water. The water keeps weeds and most pests at bay and also enables aquaculture, such as raising fish and frogs, which can be reared in the ponds.

In Sarawak, traditional rice cultivation is practiced in many parts, with the remote village of Ba’kelalan in the state’s far northeast, being one location where adan, or highland rice, is cultivated. This is also known as Bario rice, named after the most famous village where adan is grown. What impresses most visitors who fly into the village on scheduled flights operated by MASwings’ small aircraft is the variety of colours of the rice, which is grown under organic conditions. After the manual harvest, buffalo graze in the fields and fertilize the soil for the next crop. 

In other parts of Malaysia, the ‘rice bowl’ states of Kedah, Perlis, Perak, and Kelantan are mostly planted out to lowland rice, which is mechanically harvested. Visitors can learn more about rice production at Muzium Padi in Mukim Gunung Keriang, northwest of Alor Star in Kedah, and at Laman Padi on the island of Langkawi. Malaysia supplies about 70% of its own annual rice requirements, with most imported rice coming from Vietnam, Thailand, Pakistan, and India.

Annual global rice production is approximately 757 million tonnes, with China and India accounting for slightly more than half of this total. The five leading producers account for about 75% of the total production, while the top 15 rice-producing nations make up 91% of the total production. The leading rice-exporting nations are India, Vietnam, Thailand, Pakistan, and the United States, while the leading rice importing nations are China, the Philippines, and Nigeria.

FEEDING THE PLANET

The Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) estimates that between 8% and 24% of the global rice harvest is lost due to poor infrastructure such as storage, pest control and transporting produce to market. Furthermore, they estimate preventable losses to be worth US$89 billion per annum. The FAO suggests that if these losses were eliminated, the food saved could feed 70 to 100 million people.

Furthermore, the International Rice Research Institute (IRRI) estimates that 37% of the annual global rice crop is lost to disease and pests. with rats alone contributing between 5 and 10% to the annual crop loss. Could more efficient systems resolve the world’s food shortages?  

TERRACES ON THE ISLAND OF THE GODS

Over the decades, population pressures have forced people to move from the flat and easy rice-growing regimes on floodplains into higher, steeper and more challenging farming locations. Farmers adapted to these steep mountain slopes by crafting rice terraces into the hillside to recreate the essential flat land to flood for rice cultivation. 

Viewed from another perspective, the colourful patterns of these terraces have created dramatic landscapes that appeal to travellers. In some locations, tourism now sits side by side with agriculture as a revenue generator. Several expanses of rice terraces have been named by UNESCO as World Heritage Sites, and I have been fortunate to visit several and can highly recommend them to other travellers.

While some may debate the fact that farmers toil in the field so that we can admire their handiwork, others would argue that tourism also creates much-needed economic benefits for the local community.

Timing is all-important in the enjoyment of the picturesque landscapes of the region’s rice terraces. This is especially important for photography. Fields vary in colour from verdant green to golden yellow depending on the growing cycle, with the worst time to visit being immediately following the harvest when the exposed soil, punctuated by gnarly stubble, is all that remains until the next seedlings are planted. 

While rice thrives on flat padi (or paddy) fields in river deltas, the scenery is most dramatic when rice is cultivated in terraces on upland mountainous slopes. Water is supplied by rain, rivers and mountain streams, which flow downhill and through the terraces at different levels via an intricate and well-designed irrigation system. These terraces also help control soil erosion.

BALI HIGH

One of the best locations to admire such rice terraces and the intricate water management system that enables such cultivation is on the Indonesian island of Bali. Here, Ubud is famous for its culture, laidback vibe, and natural and semi-natural surroundings. The nearby rice terraces at Tegalalang have supported generations of Balinese families and now appeal to tourists seeking magical images to impress their social media audiences.

These rice terraces are made more impressive by their backdrop of volcanic peaks and lush forests dominated by palm trees. While visually impressive, these terraces were created centuries ago, and their management is an integral component in the island’s complex cultural fabric. The management and control of water are vital to rice production with the Balinese system known as subak. A finely tuned, ecologically sound, cooperative system ensures that all fields receive water supplied by the gods. Religion plays an important role, and water temples are an essential component of all Balinese subaks.

Many tourists now visit terraces such as those at Tegalalang, located just 20 minutes north of Ubud. The best time to visit for me is when the fields are yellow and just ready for harvesting. Two crops are planted here (January-February and July-August). The ripened rice is then harvested in July-August and October-November. Other rice terraces to consider include Belimbing and Tirta Gangga, while the Campuhan Ridge Walk provides a close encounter with agricultural activity. While most have become over-commercialized, those seeking to escape the madding crowd don’t have to venture far from the well-trodden tourist routes. Jatiluwih, 20 km to the northwest of Ubud, is one such site – and it’s a good one.

VIETNAM’S HILL COMMUNITIES

Vietnam’s mountain region of Sa Pa, in the country’s northwest near the Chinese border, is a scenic area made more colourful by numerous ethnic hill-tribe communities that grow rice on mountainous terraces. These communities include the Hmong, Giay, Dao and Tay people who migrated from China and have been farming land around Mount Fansipan (3,147 m above sea level), for centuries.

While the quickest route to Sa Pa is by road, the more enjoyable mode of transport is the overnight train from Hanoi. The next morning, passengers for Sa Pa alight at Lao Cai for the minivan transfer up the circuitous road to Sa Pa.

Photographers differ in their opinions on the best time to visit, with black-and-white aficionados favouring bare fields and exposed terraces while colour enthusiasts enjoy other seasons.

From mid-September to mid-October, the padi is fully ripe and a shimmering golden yellow. Most photographers agree the worst time to visit is when the stubble is burned off and the air is filled with a smoky haze.  

Mù Cang Chải, a little further to the southeast, is less visited but is just as visually impressive with rice terraces on the valley sides.

LONGING FOR LONGJI

The Longji (or Longsheng) rice terraces, located in China’s mountainous Longsheng County, are a two-hour drive northwest of Guilin in the Guangxi Autonomous Region. There are several rice terraces to visit, and the tourism infrastructure is well-organized with shuttle buses providing access from large carparks to the most popular sites.

While I enjoyed my time here, visitors need to appreciate that these sites are most Instagrammable and that the tourism infrastructure in the small villages is now being pushed to the limit. A good guide is important for those seeking more solitude, as they know the least-visited areas.

BANAUE: A PHILIPPINE NATURAL TREASURE

Located over 1,500 m above sea level, the rice terraces of Banaue, on the island of Luzon in the Philippines, are considered the world’s steepest. These terraces were first cut into the slopes by the local Ifugao people over 2,000 years ago. Considered a national treasure by Filipinos, these terraces are rather impressive, as are other destinations in the Central Cordillera, like Sagada. Some years ago, I made the arduous road journey from Baguio to Banaue via Sagada and can recommend it to adventurous travellers, especially for the steep farming terraces around Luzon’s highest peak, Mount Pulag (2,928 m).

It is worth noting that the Banaue terraces are a nine-hour road journey from Manila, and there is limited tourism infrastructure upon arrival. To give you some idea of just how limited, I can report that over my years of travel through Asia, I have developed an uncanny ability to locate bars where I can admire the sunset over a refreshing ale or two. I have yet to find that bar in Banaue, with the closest I ever came being the Banaue Hotel.

The best times to visit are February-March (green fields) and July-August (golden fields). The months of November and December are known as ‘mirror time’ because the fields are covered in a layer of water.