Penang’s wine scene has come a long way. James Springer takes a closer look at this particular tipple’s rise to fame.
Since discovering the majestic island of Penang on the northwest coast of Malaysia, I have been astounded by the cultural revelry that has developed in the last couple of years. George Town holds its own festival. Boutique hotels continue to spring from the ashes of previously derelict shop-houses. Straits Quay has another theatre, and Penang PAC is revitalising the arts and stage scene. The number of exciting new restaurants, not mention the quality and variety of food, has truly improved Penang’s oft-quoted tag line of “Food Capital of Southeast Asia.”
The next surprising addition to Penang’s resurgence is the developing wine culture. In the broader scheme of things, Penang pales in comparison to Singapore, Hong Kong, and even Kuala Lumpur with its representation of wine, but is well on its way to shedding that tag.
After the establishment of That Little Wine Bar, local Penangites seemed to have grasped wine by the stem with a fi rm grip. Talking to Chef Tommes, celebrity Chef and owner of That Little Wine Bar, the local adoption of wine has not gone unnoticed. “Depending on the season, we can have a 80-20 crowd: 80% local Chinese and 20% Western,” said Tommes of the type of crowd the restaurant attracts, “and whether they are a group of women friends, a table of businessmen, or a couple on a date, more often than not they order a bottle or more!”
Tommes’ dream was to always open a wine bar, but why do it in Malaysia? Being a predominantly Muslim country and with high import taxes on alcoholic beverages, it was certainly not an obvious decision. And, why do it in Penang? This small bastion of comparative Western development in Malaysia was not, even fi ve years ago, nearly as developed as Kuala Lumpur and Singapore. Would not have those more accustomed to wine in Asia made a better target market? “Well, you’re right. Even when we opened in December 2009, the local tipple was still whiskey and beer ,so it was an uphill struggle. However, four years on – and after our wine classes have gained traction – not only are more locals drinking wine, but more places opening are offering it, too.”
This is a crucial point. The Cellar at Macalister Mansion, The Wine Shop, Suffolk House, as well as many other establishments are all now open with wine as the only beverage on offer, or at least the most noticeable one. There is a growing enthusiasm from the local middle-class as well as the expats, judging by the number of Chinese Penangites at the tastings held at various wine sellers throughout the year. Flights of Bordeaux tastings, sometimes containing more than 30 different labels, are enjoyed by all guests and add fuel their already curious fires. It is these wine classes, wine tastings and wine and food pairing events which are making the local population realise that wine is not a snooty, inaccessible and over priced luxury good, but an enjoyable experience and something which can be explored, analysed, and even criticised in a fun a relaxed environment – by simply drinking it.
Gradually, Penang’s knowledge of wine is beginning to rival its neighbours, adding another dimension to the local culture as well as enhancing the wine network in Malaysia generally. Professional organisations such as SOMLAY (Sommelier Association of Malaysia), Court of Master Sommeliers, Wine Academy Malaysia and Hospitality and Tourism Consultancy (HTC) in Asia are all beginning to make an impression in the international wine market as well as holding a presence in Malaysia. Having spoken to Roder ick Wong (President of SOMLAY and Wine Academy), just after he finished judging the Malaysian Best Sommelier Championship 2013, it is clear that his influence is growing in creating the bright, young wine professionals of the future.
It is the professional aspect of wine that is beginning to take hold in Penang and Malaysia. With institutions in Penang providing hospitality, culinary and management courses to the young aspirators of the hospitality sector, it is encouraging to see these courses and modules touching (if only a little briefly) on wine knowledge. Wine tuition in Penang is making inroads into providing young professionals leaving college or university with relevant and specifi c wine knowledge to use in their respective careers in the food and beverage industry.
Finally, is the gradual realisation of many Penangites and Malaysians of the wine tours available at such close proximity, including countries like Thailand, Burma and Vietnam. Wine Advisory, a wine consultancy company based in Penang, has begun working with wineries and vineyards in Asia to raise their profi le to Malaysians as ideal holiday destinations. Normally close to a golf resort and defi nitely no more than three hours from a major city centre, Thailand’s wineries and vineyards, such as Siam Winery, Hua Hin Hills Vineyards, PB Valley winery and vineyard and GranMonte, are the epitome of unique travel experiences nestled in stunning Thai. Rural scenery, complete with elephant tours of the vineyards, add to the tastings, presentations and private bottle labelling activities that fill up the average tourist day.
When talking to a young Chinese lady new to the world of wine, I asked what sparked her interest. “For me, wine is mysterious, full of characteristics and adventurous. Each bottle of wine gives me the excitement and anticipation to explore its unique characteristics, especially the relation between wine and food.” It was obvious that her appreciation of wine went further than just trying the occasional bottle. “Visiting these Asian vineyards is great because to love wine, we must know their base and really get into details about what forms a wine’s characteristics.”
Indeed, wine in Penang has certainly begun to rear its velvety head. Whether red or white, dry or fruity, full-bodied or light, this popular drink is now a regular companion for Penangites who have braved the terminology and specifi city of wine’s complicated nature and come out the other end unscathed. Like most Western things in Southeast Asia , wine has joined the slow migration of commerce, manufacture, and economy to the East like swallows searching for more promising climates.
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