Compared to George Town’s boutique beautification and tourist hordes, the quaint streets of Ipoh’s Old Town are rising as a less obvious heritage destination; Marco Ferrarase investigates. All images taken by Kit Yeng Chan.

Ipoh remains the unsung hero among the cities of Malaysia’s West coast. Walking from the 1935 white marble train station across the field that was the Japanese Army’s operation base during World War II, one finds himself in Ipoh Old Town proper, a cluster of streets sheltered by a bend of the Kinta River.

Here, multi-coloured Chinese shop-houses lean against each other like sleepy friends, resting and soaking up the ebb and flow of slow life in the tropics. And besides never-changing, century-old mainstays, a few recently opened spots have livened up the place with boutique modernity – but still without the massive crowds.

1. Sekeping Kong Heng

The eight rooms here – including two hanging glass boxes – are the most deluxe way to experience true shop-house living right in the heart of the Old Town. Modern fittings are graciously adapted to a 1923 building that, way back when, functioned as the living quarters of a Cantonese opera troupe.

They performed in the 1500-seat theater next door, which has transformed today into trendy bistro Plan B (thebiggroup.co/planb; drinks for two from RM 25). This café revamped the building’s original structure using spacious glass and wood fittings, and it’s a great stop for brews and mouthwatering cakes.

Contact details and price

75 Jalan Panglima; sekeping.com/kongheng
Double rooms from RM220

2. Sarang Paloh

Not far away, another old Chinese shop house is ready to host the heritage-nostalgic. In 5 minutes’ walking distance to Ipoh’s clock tower, it welcomes guests in a throwback lobby furnished with Chinese vintage house ware and inspiring batik paintings. A spiral staircase leads upstairs to rooms refurbished from the quarters of a 1920s bank.

Contact details and price

16 Jalan Sultan Iskandar; sarangpaloh.com
Double rooms from RM238

3. Kedai Makanan Nam Heng

This is the original shop that marketed Ipoh White coffee, the quintessential Old Town brew introduced by immigrant Chinese tin-miners in the 19th century.

Nam Heng is great for local-style breakfast, consumed while rubbing elbows with the other customers amidst the crackling sounds of hawkers’ ladles and sizzling woks.

Besides thick, aromatic white coffee, the fresh egg tarts filled with silky custard are delicious, together with a collection of noodles, including white curry mee, and mushroom-sauce chee chong fun.

And if recommending a cup wasn’t enough, check the walls in Jalan Dato Maharajalela.

Here, Ernest Zacharevic, the Lithuanian artist who made Penang a street art star, glorified Ipoh’s signature drink with a gigantic mural.

Contact details and price

2 Jalan Bandar Timah; 016-553-8119
Meal for two from RM20

The streets of Ipoh Old Town are never free of the aroma of bean sprout chicken, another local delicacy.

Steamed and sliced to perfection over a backdrop of greens, and served with white noodle soup and fresh bean sprouts, it’s one of Ipoh’s favourites.

And it’s particularly tasty and cheap at Ong Kee, a mom and pop hole in the wall shop that serves some of the juiciest in the Old Town.

You don’t believe me? Try to find a seat among the hordes of locals, then.

Contact details and price

48 Jalan Yau Tet Shin; 60-5/253-1562;
Meal for two from RM20

With a back entrance covered by rows of colorful hanging umbrellas, this artsy bistro has vintage bicycles parked next to wooden tables, lofty interiors and a cozy atmosphere where it’s easy to kick back for a few hours, forgetting all about what’s going on outside. The one-hour noodle free flow at RM18 is a steal, and another good reason to linger.

Contact details and price

26 Jalan Market, under 1981 Guesthouse shop sign; facebook.com/WheelNoodle
Meal for two from RM15

6. Han Chin Pet Soo

To take a break from all the food, the Ipoh’s newest heritage museum offers a peek into the old world charm of a Hakka Chinese clan house. The first floor of this double story ‘gentlemen club’ for tin-miners and tycoons recounts the history of Ipoh’s industrial past.

Upstairs, the quirky reproduction of a Chinese gambling and opium den completed with life-sized statues of Fu Manchu-alike punters and their molls is unmissable.

Contact details and price

3 Jalan Bijeh Timah; free tour booking at ipohworld.org/reservation