Step into the hidden alleyways of Kwai Chai Hong, a beautifully restored gem in Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown that takes visitors on a nostalgic journey back to the 1960s.

The chatter of small children fills the narrow lane, their high-pitched voices echoing off the walls of the street they call home. Two drunken prostitutes help each other back to their lodgings, their laughter mixes with the sounds of the children at play. A calligrapher, disturbed by all this noise, looks up from his work but decides to keep quiet. He has learnt over time to avoid mingling with these working ladies in particular, as their words can be sharper than his pen.

This is how Kwai Chai Hong used to be in the 1960s during the heyday of KL’s Chinatown, when gangs roamed the streets, gamblers filled the bars, and life was far different – and likely tougher than it is today.

STEPPING BACK IN TIME

In 2024, walking through Kwai Chai Hong feels like a nostalgic journey back in time. A wheelchair-accessible red bridge, constructed from reclaimed wood salvaged during the restoration of the shop lots, leads into the hidden alley. Seated gracefully at the entrance of Kwai Chai Hong, visitors are greeted by a statuesque lady in a stunning kei pou dress made from thousands of porcelain pieces – a fine creation by Alice Chang of Lai Lai Art Studio.

According to Chinese superstition, chipped bowls and plates are seen as omens of misfortune. Inspired by this belief, the artist transformed these items into a lasting art piece that everyone can appreciate. The sculpture has been a part of Kwai Chai Hong since 2021, but unfortunately, the life-size statue has been damaged by visitors twice since then. It has been restored and returned to the entrance, where it is hoped she will now find a measure of peace.

Kwai Chai Hong also features displays of the original wooden windows and a century-old lamppost, believed to be the only one surviving from the first set of lampposts installed in Kuala Lumpur when electricity arrived here in the early 1900s. Allegedly, the lamp was made by Glasgow-based company McDowall Stevens.

REVITALIZING KWAI CHAI HONG

In 2018, a group of five local entrepreneurs discovered the neglected alleyway and took its restoration upon themselves, investing over RM1.5 million of their own money. The project started off as a side business when they acquired a 12-year lease for the 10 shoplots, running until 2030, noting the good rental rates and boom in hip new restaurants in the neighbourhood. Project Kwai Chai Hong involves 10 restored shophouses – six fronting Jalan Petaling and another four units along Lorong Panggung – as well as a delightful alleyway tucked between the two roads of Jalan Petaling and Lorong Panggung. After the renovation, Kwai Chai Hong was officially reopened to the public in April 2019.

Zeen Chang, the managing partner of Bai Chuan Management, the company formed by the five collaborators to undertake this project, shares insights into the initiative. “I knew that by revitalizing this space, I could uplift both the community and the local economy, and breathe new life into the area,” he explains. “What started as a side business project evolved into a passion project, as we dedicated significant time, effort, and investment to ensure it would have a meaningful impact on the public.” Zeen proudly shows before-and-after photos of the area. Winner of two travel awards, Kwai Chai Hong now attracts visitors all year round.

LITTLE GHOSTS

Lorong Panggung is home to four of the restored shoplots and is often referred to as the ‘Little Ghosts Alley’. It has acquired this nickname through three different stories. The first suggests that the alley was once home to large families with many mischievous children running around Lorong Panggung, and their parents used to nickname them ‘little ghosts.’ Another tale claims that the alley was notorious for its gamblers and alcoholics, who were called ‘ghosts’ in Mandarin or Cantonese. Another story suggests that Lorong Panggung served as a hideout for the ‘Dragon Tiger Clan,’ where the boss referred to his members as ‘little ghosts.’

TALKING MURALS

One of the most captivating features of the alley must surely be the murals, which provide picturesque backdrops for photographs. Within the laneway, six murals vividly depict the daily lives of early Chinese settlers from the 1960s. These include ‘Little Girl Peering Out of the Window,’ ‘Cabaret Girl,’ ‘The Couple Wall,’ and ‘Er Hu Uncle,’ all of which come alive with augmented reality, turning these artworks into engaging experiences.

QR codes located on the walls next to each of the murals allow you to access audio narrations via your phone that transport you back to the ’60s. Listen to the enchanting voices from ‘The Couple Wall’ or the melodious sounds of the traditional erhu violin from ‘Er Hu Uncle,’ located just to the left as you enter the lane.

DRAMA QUEEN ALERT

Twice a year, Kwai Chai Hong undergoes another transformation. During Chinese New Year and the Mid-Autumn Festival in September, the little lane becomes even more interesting with the installation of art works by a local Malaysian artist. This year, the founders have collaborated with Tan Sher Lynn, who created an artwork with Chinese opera as the main theme. Dating back 2,000 years to the Three Kingdoms Period (220-265 CE), Chinese opera is one of the oldest and most complex dramatic art forms in the world as it combines music, dance, martial arts, acrobatics, and literary arts in its performances.

Despite its abundantly rich heritage, Chinese opera is now tragically fading out in Malaysia, facing challenges from modernisation and dwindling interest among the young audience. The Mid-Autumn Festival installation themed the ‘Drama Queen’ pays homage to Chinese opera. Sher Lynn’s centrepiece, ‘In the Mind of a Doyenne,’ is inspired by the Chinese opera ‘Doyenne.’ Also showcasing is a display of art pieces named ‘Dancing Sleeves,’ inspired by the costumes and the fluid arm-in-sleeve movements found in what is known as ‘water sleeves’ in Chinese opera. The art installation will be showcased in the alley of Kwai Chai Hong until September 22, 2024.

CULINARY DELIGHTS

Kwai Chai Hong is home to several charming restaurants. There is Gui Gui BBQ, for example, serving high-quality Daegu Korean BBQ, rice cake skewers, mussel soup, and more – served with ice-cold Soju Beer.

Concubine bar features two entrances: one at Lorong Panggung and another at the back, located at the end of the charming alley. Renowned for its exceptional cocktails and appetizers, it’s an ideal spot for enjoying a cozy drink before dinner. There is a small rooftop bar as well, so you need to arrive early to secure a spot during these times or book ahead. Special mention for the Pepper Rye cocktail, a drink with a spicy twist. As an appetizer, a must-try is the prawn fritter chips!

Not many people will be able to resist the soft tasty buns at Da Bao, one of the latest adventurous modern takes on the traditional bao set to hit the heart of Chinatown. The basic premise of Da Bao is simple and straightforward – to serve delicious and top-quality baos with a modern and local twist. This restaurant is pet-friendly, and like everything here, contributes to the area’s rich historic vibes, intermingled seamlessly with all the modern sensibilities of present-day KL.

Additional words and photos by Chad Merchant