In a region with dynamic city destinations like Bangkok, Jakarta, Singapore, and Saigon, a trip to Laos might seem rather notably quiet and laid-back. Sometimes, though, that can be just the ticket.

Laos (officially the People’s Democratic Republic of Lao, or Lao PDR) is a part of Asia that relatively few journey to, so there is a real sense of frontier travelling. Any visit to Laos is destined to be memorable in terms of both the journey and its tourist sights. It is also one of the region’s most isolated and difficult countries to travel around, although that is changing. The Belt and Road Initiative of the Chinese has Laos firmly in its sights, with a railway line now up and running from Kunming in southern China through the country to the Lao capital of Vientiane. But more on that later.

LOST IN TIME

Despite being a small nation with limited resources, Laos has substantial tourism assets. Its mountains and rivers are some of the region’s most picturesque, and its people, comprising many hill tribe communities, are varied and colourful. Its population of some seven million is diverse and complex, with between 49 to 134 ethnic communities (this variation is indicative of the uncertainty and intrigue that awaits travellers).

However, Laos is one of the poorest countries in the region with limited communications and tourism infrastructure outside of the main tourist centres. Of course, this is exactly what makes the country so ideal for travellers with a sense of adventure. 

While the country may be unknown to many, its enviable geographical location has not escaped the attention of other nations throughout history. The mighty Mekong River flows through the mountainous, landlocked nation, helping to facilitate trade, and the Thais, Vietnamese, Chinese, and Burmese have all occupied Lao territory over the years. 

In the ’60s and ’70s, Laos was often in the news for all the wrong reasons. While America was officially fighting neighbouring North Vietnam and war was never declared on the Lao people, numerous ordinances were nevertheless dropped on the country during the conflict. The Mines Advisory Group (MAG) notes that Laos still stands as the most heavily bombed nation per capita in history. North Vietnamese troops transiting through Laos to attack South Vietnam were bombed by the Americans and Laos just happened to be in the way of the opposing forces.

The CIA-backed commercial airline called Air America, meanwhile, was the busiest airline in the world during the conflict, although very few knew of their clandestine bombing operations – their motto was anything, anywhere, anytime. (Christopher Robbins’ books, Air America and The Ravens, make essential reading for all those interested in this period of history.)

Sadly, Lao people still die today from landmines and other ordnance remaining from this era. MAG estimates that 30% of the 220 million sub-munitions dropped did not detonate, and an estimated 1,600 sq km of land still needs to be cleared, roughly the size of Greater London. In 2023 alone, MAG’s staff in Laos successfully detonated and destroyed 19,412 landmines and unexploded bombs, clearing a total of some 16.63 million square metres of land – or just 16.63 sq km – underscoring the sheer scale of the project.

LAO DESTINATIONS

Luang Prabang is the country’s travel jewel, but Laos is a reasonably large country with several tourist areas, though with few major roads. There are fine destinations such as Vientiane, Vang Vieng, Phonsavan (Plain of Jars), Nam Ha Pha, Tham Kong, Si Phan Don, Bolaven Plateau, and Wat Phu Champasak.  

Vientiane

There is a temptation to bypass Vientiane on the way to Luang Prabang. The capital is rapidly changing, with many outsiders recognising the nation’s economic potential. If you are a traveller who needs to be constantly entertained with glitzy shopping and energetic nightlife, Vientiane is admittedly not the place for you. However, for those looking a capital that is quieter than other Asian cities, Vientiane is perfect. The Lao capital sprawls along the northern banks of the Mekong River, and Buddhist temples (wats) are a highlight. Haw Pha Kaeo and Pha That Luang are the most photogenic, but Wat Si Sakat and That Dam are also worth investigating.

Vientiane’s Arc de Triomphe is the city’s most prominent monument with good views over the city from the top. (There is a suggestion that the cement used to build it in the 1960s was earmarked for building a new airstrip for US bombers.) Vientiane offers a breath of fresh air with its rich culture and uniquely Lao products like local coffee, delicious food, fine silk, and one of the region’s finest and cheapest beers. Seek out Lao products at the Morning Market (Talat Sao).

Lao silk is some of the region’s best and the intricate art pieces are prized by collectors. Weaving is a cottage industry involving women, although some valuable collectors’ pieces are crafted at Carol Cassidy Lao Textiles in downtown Vientiane.

Enjoy delicate Lao dishes mostly accompanied by sticky rice. Several dishes of fish, meat and vegetables maybe served with the rice. Some common dishes include laap, som moo, tam mak houng, and soup. At sunset, stroll along the Mekong River for a refreshing Lao beer and snack in one of many stalls. In October or November, the riverfront and many other parts of the country become festival sites for Bun Nam (boat racing festival). Teams from across the country race each other with the finals staged in Vientiane.

Luang Prabang

If there is any chilled-out Asian town, Luang Prabang is it. A sleepy backwater at the confluence of the Mekong and Khan Rivers, Luang Prabang was once the royal capital and there still are some 30 appealing ancient temples in the area. Being a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the façades at least of most buildings in the small and walkable town remain mostly untouched.

Some interiors have been converted into trendy boutique guesthouses, hotels, cafés, restaurants, and shops. These provide the trappings that appeal to contemporary travellers to ensure they can experience Lao culture while savouring the finer things of life.

Visitors can enjoy coffee or Lao beer beside the Mekong, dine on tasty and affordable Lao food, cycle around the town, take in the temples, or head off on a river journey. There are several smart hotels to stay like The Apsara, Maison Souvannaphoum (the former residence of Prince Souvanna Phouma), Sofitel, Pullman, and 3 Nagas. For even more bespoke luxury, choose Amantaka or Avani+ (formerly Azerai).

Vang Vieng

While there are flights from the capital to some parts of the country, including Luang Prabang, adventurous travellers can always consider taking a bus. If a bus journey is palatable to you, Vang Vieng becomes a good destination possibility. The small town, about a three-hour drive north from Vientiane, is a backpacker magnet and a place to tube down the gently flowing river. In the 1990s, the town became notorious for its cheap party scene, and drew young budget travellers from near and far.

While the authorities have sanitized the town’s party image and bars along the river over the years, Vang Vieng is still a rite of passage for many backpackers in Southeast Asia. However, the town was recently in the news for the tragic methanol poisoning deaths of six young tourists in November 2024, and observers have wondered if the highly publicized incident may cast a long-lasting shadow over the tourism prospects of Vang Vieng, at least in the near term.

That said, however, the karst topography and limestone caves are quite dramatic for those who don’t want to join in the riverine antics. (Authorities also recommend sticking to beer to be on the safe side, and to never combine alcohol with any outdoor or adventure-style activities.)

Phonsavan

The Plain of Jars, as it’s better known, has little interest to most tourists – apart from some huge jars of unknown origin sitting on the plains 15 km to the southwest to northeast of the town. Phonsavan is an attractive small town known to Lao people as Xieng Khuang. Several hundred jars have been carved from solid stone and are thought to be about 2,000 years old. Travellers understandably debate whether it’s worth the trip, although if you just want to relax in the countryside and see the jars, this is the place.

SEE IT NOW

Time waits for no one, as the Lao people know all too well. Any current travel article on Laos would be incomplete if it did not mention the new high-speed (160 km/hour) train line from Kunming in southern China through to Vientiane (1,022 km, with 400 km within Laos) that will eventually connect to the train line at Nong Khai in northeast Thailand and southward all the way through Malaysia to Singapore.

The Kunming to Vientiane line was completed a couple of years ago, opening officially for cross-border travel on April 23, 2023. The one-way fare for the entirety of the line converts to about US$80 for a second-class seat, and US$120 for first class. The train departs Kunming South at 8:08am and arrives in Vientiane at 5:34pm.

Official communiques from the Chinese partners (the line is 70% Chinese-funded and 30% Lao-funded, the latter through loans from Chinese institutions) suggest the line will develop the local economy and boost the export of Lao products to the world. Others, however, maintain that the main beneficiaries will be the Chinese and its trading partners other than Laos. Detractors also suggest debt distress for the nation is a real concern, something to which Sri Lankans can attest. Additionally, not unlike many other places in the region, deforestation, logging, and plantation expansion have created environmental problems in northern Laos, but as few people visit there, the extent of the damage is not widely known.

One thing is for certain: now and in the near future, more tourists will be able to travel to Laos via train, and while this will bring benefit to some, sleepy backwaters like Luang Prabang could well experience an influx of tourists that will inevitably change the character of places that adventurous tourists – in much smaller numbers – have come to appreciate in the past. There is no better time than now to experience the tranquillity of Laos.

TRAVEL FILE

Getting There

Though there were direct flights from Kuala Lumpur to Vientiane and Luang Prabang prior to the pandemic, those flights have not resumed, so connecting flights are currently the only option. Adventurous travellers could consider the following odyssey by entering northwest Lao from Huay Xai (on the Mekong, opposite Chiang Khong in Thailand), taking a two-day boat journey down the Mekong to Luang Prabang, riding the bus for nine hours to Vientiane via Vang Vieng, crossing into Thailand across the Friendship Bridge at Nong Khai, and then taking the overnight train to Bangkok. Overland journeys can also be made from Ubon Ratchathani in eastern Thailand through to Pakse and then into Vietnam near Kon Tum in central Vietnam.

Visas

Most nationalities can obtain a month-long visa upon arrival (pay in U.S. dollars, and provide two passport-size photos). As Laos is a member of ASEAN, some nationals (such as Malaysians) can enter the country without a visa.

When to Travel

The cool season from November to February is best time to travel, and the hot season from March to May is best avoided. Mid-year burning of the forests by shifting cultivators has created haze problems in recent years. December, January, and August are peak months where accommodation in popular places can get booked out.

With additional text by Chad Merchant