Chiang Mai offers a rich tapestry of culture, history, and adventure. From bustling markets to serene riverside spots and vibrant food scenes, this city is a must-visit.

Chiang Mai is an exotic and exciting destination, just perfect for a short break from Kuala Lumpur, and it’s one that never fails to disappoint. This northern Thai city is also the gateway for the northwest and all the adventures possible in the hills that roll off to the Myanmar border. For those who have time, there are many places to visit in northern Thailand with the Chiang Mai-Chiang Dao-Pai-Mae Hong Song-Khun Yuam-Doi Inthonon loop being a popular but circuitous driving route with many twists and turns.

Northern Thailand is the home of the first Thai kingdoms of Chiang Saen, Chiang Mai and Sukhothai. Over the centuries, Thai and Burmese rulers tussled for control of Thailand’s ancient cities. Today, Chiang Mai is rated Thailand’s most liveable city. With about 1.2 million residents in the principal urban area, Thailand’s second-largest city offers many facilities that appeal to global travellers – direct access via its international airport, various accommodation options from world-class luxury resorts to backpackers’ budget hostels, enticing food and beverage choices, and a breadth of culture from traditional to pop.

Mae Ping (Ping River) flows through the city and many hotels and restaurants are located along the riverbanks to capitalize on the views and refreshing breezes.

SPICE OF LIFE

Chiang Mai provides the opportunity to sample northern Thai food, famous for dishes like khao soi made from egg noodles and served with curry sauce. Chicken, pork, or seafood is added and then topped with shredded shallots and lettuce.

Huen Phen Phan Restaurant is arguably the best outlet for authentic northern Thai dishes. The fact that it is packed with locals confirms this, but as it is listed in the Lonely Planet guide, there is a reasonable smattering of foreigners, as well. Order sticky rice and dishes like pork sausage, eggplant, pork curry, and minced crabmeat to add some spice to your visit.

One of the city’s established riverside restaurants is Good View on the river’s eastern bank. Its cavernous interior is protected by a membrane and cooled by a battery of fans. Alternatively, relax on the verandah where reservations are essential. Arrive at sunset for drinks in the garden before moving onto an extensive selection of Thai, Japanese, and international dishes on offer. Choose for specialties like roasted duck’s knuckle, spicy mango salad with pork, and fermented pork spareribs.

The Anantara is an elegant riverside resort with the former colonial residence of the British Consulate surrounded by the resort’s new designer additions. Here, The Restaurant serves dishes like goong mae nan todd (river prawns with sweet tamarind sauce) and gaeng hang laey moo (pork curry). Alternatively, The Service 1921 Restaurant and Bar here, serves contemporary Asian cuisine and cocktails.

SOUVENIRS AND SHOPPING

The Night Market (or Bazaar) is one of Asia’s legendary markets, famous for souvenirs, clothing, jewellery, and many things you probably never thought you needed. It is the home of goods from fakes to fantasy but is always a fun but busy place. It is also a well-established venue for food served in restaurants and open-air stalls.

The most atmospheric wet market is Warorot Market near Nakornping Bridge that crosses the Ping River. Mee krob rad na (crispy noodles), iced jelly treats, sticky rice and mango, roasted water chestnuts, and exotic delights such as beetles, larvae, and bamboo worms are yours for the tasting – if you’re so inclined.

‘Walking Street’ markets are held in the open air every Saturday and Sunday night but in different locations. On Saturday, the markets extend along Wualai Road while on Sunday, it’s the bigger one held along Rachadamnoen Road. Everyone will love the atmosphere, but maybe not the crowds, so arrive early if you appreciate personal space.

Local delights here include locally made ice cream, Chinese herbal jelly, local fresh or dried strawberries, passionfruit, hill tribe coffee, macadamia nuts, and mulberry or mangosteen wine. That is just the food, but other things to seek out include clothing (cool designer t-shirts) and stationery made from recycled paper and elephant poo.

While artisans still produce handicrafts on the outskirts of the city, large factory-like outlets selling lacquerware, silk, silverware, wooden carvings, antiques, and umbrellas are now quite common and cater to busloads of eager shoppers. Shops in the villages of Sankampaeng and Bo Sang are the ones where most visitors are taken.

The road to Sankampaeng via Borsarng is lined with outlets selling many of these items. Borsarng Umbrella Village is where handmade umbrellas are produced. These days, bargains are few and far between, and you must make decisions that are best for you, bearing in mind that organized tours and even those where you secure your own driver will almost certainly be based upon whoever takes you there receiving a commission.

For something more authentic, head into the old city within the crumbling walls and moat or off to trendy Nimmanhaemin (abbreviated to Nimman). Artisan-made products are also available from two shops on Nawatgate Road: Healing Family Foundation with handicrafts made by disabled workers and, across the road, Fai Sor Kam Gallery, where students from Thammasat University sell their own creations.

For more conventional shopping, try Central Airport Plaza anchored by Robinson Department Store and Northern Village with its selection of local products including coffee, candles, aromatherapy treatments and silk. If you’re looking for books, head to Suriwongse Books or Lost Books (quality secondhand books covering Thai and regional topics, as well as novels).

BARISTA BREWS

Thais have taken to the café society as readily – and with as much enthusiasm – as many other Asian cultures and have even conceived a few innovative local concept café brands, such as Black Canyon, Doi Tung, Doi Chaang, and Wawee. Doi Tung, with beans supplied from the northern mountain of the same name, has several outlets in Chiang Mai. Wawee Bistro, opposite Tamarind Village (a boutique hotel), has a great streetside location, especially for the Sunday Walking Market when the street scene becomes a shopping frenzy.

TRAVEL FILE

Getting There

There are direct budget airline flights to Chiang Mai with a flying time of about three hours. Alternatively, transit through Bangkok on full-service airlines.

Accommodation

Chiang Mai has a hotel to accommodate all tastes and budgets. In the central Night Market precinct stay in the Mövenpick Suriwongse (the atmospheric streetside bar here offers beer at great value during happy hours), DusitD2, Dusit Princess or Le Méridien, nearby and along the river at the Anantara, in the old city in Tamarind Village, at Akyra Manor in Nimman and in the surrounding leafy hills in properties such as MGallery Veranda High Resort or Four Seasons Resort.

Best Time to Travel

Chiang Mai’s cooler weather provides relief from the lowland heat however, summer can be quite hot. The best time to visit the north is in the cooler months from December to February (be aware this is also the peak season with the expected crowds).

Contact

Tourism Authority of Thailand (www.tourismthailand.my).