With its ‘prosperity toss’ article this week, CNN also questioned whether the celebratory dish was invented in Malaysia or Singapore, and received a sensible answer.

Here in Malaysia, and in neighbouring Singapore, it’s a fair question to ask: Is it really Chinese New Year until you’ve participated in a joyful yee sang toss? This unusual ritual (which is also pretty tasty) is a staple of the festive season around the biggest holiday on the Chinese calendar… but it’s largely confined to Malaysia and Singapore. Outside of this little part of the world, the ‘prosperity toss’ is little-known and even less-practiced.

So it was something of a treat to see a deep-dive article on this very topic published on CNN in the United States.

A summary of the article follows, but to read the original piece in its entirety, just CLICK HERE.

THE JOYFUL TRADITION OF YEE SANG

Anyone unfamiliar with the raucous Chinese New Year tradition of yee sang could be forgiven for thinking they’ve stumbled upon the world’s most chaotic food fight.

A colourful plate of shredded vegetables, raw fish, and an assortment of condiments is set at the centre of the table. Diners stand shoulder to shoulder, chopsticks at the ready, chanting auspicious phrases as each ingredient is added. Then, at a signal, everyone digs in at once, flinging the salad higher and higher, voices rising with each toss—all in the hopes of attracting prosperity, health, and happiness in the year ahead.

“Some of the most popular auspicious phrases include Huat ah! (meaning prosperity), Xin nian kuai le! (Happy New Year), and Da ji da li! (great luck and great fortune),” says Paul Liew, third-generation owner of Keng Eng Kee Seafood (KEK), a Michelin Guide-recommended no-frills food stall in Singapore serving up home-style Chinese dishes.

“The higher the toss, the more blessings you’re wishing for,” adds Aaron Khor, head chef of Fifty Tales, a modern Malaysian-Chinese restaurant. “But it’s more about the joy of celebrating together than a competition.”

A GOOD-HEARTED DISPUTE

While yee sang (or yusheng, which translates to ‘raw fish’) or, interchangeably, lou sang (or lo hei, meaning ‘stir up’) is enjoyed across Malaysia and Singapore, the question of just where the dish originated remains a subject of friendly debate.

Singapore’s version is often credited to four prominent Cantonese chefs—Sin Leong, Hooi Kok Wai, Tham Yui Kai, and Lau Yoke Pui—who, in the 1960s, revamped a simpler Chinese dish of raw fish by incorporating seven vibrant vegetables, sweet and tangy sauces, and crunchy toppings.

In Malaysia, many believe lou sang was first created in the 1940s at Loke Ching Kee, a restaurant in Seremban, where chefs drew inspiration from Cantonese fish noodle dishes. “From what I believe, the dish comes from the Cantonese people in Malaysia,” Khor says. “Usually served in big banquet restaurants, lou sang is enjoyed with a large group of people, usually 10 or more.”

For many Malaysians, the debate is much like those surrounding other beloved dishes, such as laksa and rendang (the latter of which actually hails from Indonesia). “Malaysia and Singapore were once part of the same country, so we will always have overlapping food traditions,” Khor explains. “Rather than focusing on where it started, what matters most is how we celebrate it today.”

FLAVOURS, FORTUNE, AND FUN

Traditionally, yee sang is enjoyed on the seventh day of the Lunar New Year, known as Renri, or “The People’s Birthday,” but it’s now common to toss it multiple times throughout the season.

Each ingredient carries symbolic meaning—carrots for prosperity, white radish for good luck, sesame seeds for business growth, and raw fish for abundance. “The secret to a good toss is in the sauce,” Khor notes. “A perfect balance between the crisp vegetables, crunchy peanuts, and our signature house-made plum and calamansi dressing.”

Many restaurants have put their own twist on yee sang, introducing new ingredients while preserving the dish’s essence. Khor’s Fifty Tales restaurant, for instance, has upgraded its yee sang this year by swapping raw fish for abalone (a change that’s actually been embraced by numerous restaurants in Greater KL as we enter the Year of the Snake). “Last year, we did it with cured snapper, but this time, we wanted to elevate it further,” he says.

MORE THAN JUST THE START OF A MEAL

Beyond the flavours and symbolism, yee sang is ultimately about togetherness. “Without it, we wouldn’t truly be celebrating Chinese New Year,” Khor says. “Every gathering, every dinner must include lou sang—it’s a must.”

While the tossing is a joyful, communal affair, it can get messy. “Sometimes ingredients go flying into the ceiling fans,” he laughs. “But that’s all part of the fun. The higher the toss, the greater the fortune!”

Even as yee sang begins to spread beyond Malaysia and Singapore to Chinese restaurants outside the region, its essence remains the same—a vibrant, auspicious dish that brings family and friends together in a whirlwind of colour, laughter, and hope for a prosperous year ahead.

If you’re an expat living in Malaysia, or just happen to be visiting around the Chinese New Year period, be sure to make a point to participate in a yee sang toss if at all possible. It’s one of the country’s most enduring—and endearing—festive traditions.