This post was written by Pamela Nowicka

Seeking a quick trip away and a taste of Thailand without the chaos of Bangkok, Pamela Nowicka discovers some of the comforts to be enjoyed just across the Malaysia-Thai border.

Like many people, I have fl own in and out of countries many times and am accustomed to the staccato changes of language, visuals, smells, and cultures encountered upon disembarkation at international airports. But, as the minivan closed in on the Malaysia-Thai border, I realised I had never crossed a land border before. Somehow, I imagined the differences would be more gradual than jetting in to a new destination but the change, when it came, was instantaneous.

Magda, a Canadian teacher who’d been living in South Korea, was the only other passenger in my vehicle. Impressive in her been there, done that, don’t care anymore fl oral outfi t, Magda told me she’d been to Thailand many times. “I always relax when I’m in Thailand,” she said, breathing expansively. Once border formalities were completed, the two of us emerged into Thailand and the comparisons began.

On the Malaysian side, the road was four lanes wide; on the Thai side it halved in size. Thick vegetation clustered along the edge of the narrower road, with tiny wooden houses and eateries sat amid the green. All signs were incomprehensible thanks to their curly Thai script, and suddenly the car was no longer king. Bicycles ridden by women in conical straw hats tootled alongside colourful mini vans and scooters with helmetless riders… and there was no congestion.Within minutes, I found myself understanding Magda’s remark. I was relaxing, too.

Taking It Slow

Hat Yai is the nearest substantial town to the Malaysia-Thai border, and the third-largest city in Thailand. It is, for all intents and purposes, a “normal” town, with just a slight nod in the direction of tourists but without that welcome ye great foreign god of cash thing going on, the latter being so common in tourism-dependent enclaves.That said, many Malaysians and Singaporeans do head here to shop and eat, so there are plenty of places to stay and it can get pretty busy at the weekend.

Magda was heading for the Cathay Guest House, which she described as cheap with clean sheets. “But it may not be your thing,” she warned, as we stepped inside.We were greeted by a blonde young man in a beret with piercingly glazed eyes and when Magda explained that the person lying on the wooden bench in reception was drunk (“but harmless”), I set off in search of an alternative.

Helpful locals advised I head to the King’s Hotel (126-134 Nithak U Thid 1 Road). In the reception area, an immaculately coiffed and smartly groomed blonde lady started chatting as soon as I arrived. Antonia – as the lady introduced herself – and her husband hailed from Spain and had been living in the hotel for twenty years. “Twenty years?” I squawked. “You must like Hat Yai very much.” “At first I not like, but my husband like, so now I like,” asserted Antonia with a European shrug. “Very nice. Very safe. Robinson’s department store has a salad bar.”

One reason Magda (and clearly Antonia) felt so relaxed, was that, as a pedestrian in Hat Yai, one is not constantly in a state of vigilance and fear for one’s life from roaring traffic.Wide, covered, boulevard-like pavements are dotted with verdigris coloured lamp-posts scrolled with golden curling flower designs, and traffi c lights give walkers and traffic an equal crack of the time whip.

There was a vaguely Parisian ambiance, albeit with differences. A pair of fl uffy dogs snoozed on a desk top as their owner slumped over her laptop. A tailor was sewing with her fat tortoiseshell cat curled up on the sewing machine table beside the blouse she was making. Behind metal shop shutters, a family was immersed in Thai TV.

Out and About

Heading for Lee Garden and food, I passed small shopping complexes and groups of ladies offering massages. I was drawn into Daothiam Café by the homely look and the promise of vegetarian food. Not only does the menu have a whole vegetarian section, but the veg Pad Thai, a mouthwatering mixture of noodles, bean sprouts, grated peanuts, and lime, provided crunchy comfort food without too much stodge.The food choices may not be quite as diverse as in Bangkok, but Hat Yai has much to offer the foodie and lots of Thai food to keep the hungry happy.

Everybody talks about the shopping in Thailand, so I went investigate some of the department store malls in Hat Yai, including Odean and Robinson’s. Staff seemed thrilled to practice their English as I purchased rufty tufty Scholl sandals, t-shirts, and towels, while I observed that Hat Yai is clearly the go-to place for Hello Kitty items.

The next morning I wanted to try a Thai massage. I’d seen women in shop booths getting massages, so was hoping to fi nd somewhere relaxing and above board. Part of the huge block of the King’s Hotel contained a sprawling massage parlour, so I started there. “No hanky panky,” asserted the Chinese owner sternly as I delicately voiced my concerns. A tall, chunky woman yelled “VIP room” and trotted me past long rooms with many mattresses on the fl oor to a smaller room with four mattresses on the floor and a TV. I changed into the pyjamas and waited.

The woman who came through the door was reassuringly low-key, in a King’s Massage Parlour polo shirt and white slacks. The massage was…different.Two hours of being kneaded, twisted, and pulled into various positions with the TV blaring out

Thai music channel left me, at the end, feeling more relieved than relaxed when it was over.

In need of sustenance, I wandered into the street and spotted a Muslim woman in a street restaurant doing something clever with roti and mashed banana, and needed to know more.The roti was crisp and pancake-like, while the tender mash of bananas blended delicately with the condensed milk. It was sweetly satisfying, and soothed my soul after the rather stressful massage. It seems Hat Yai is something of an oasis of Thai street food, and there are plenty of options around for bites on the run.

Note to self: must have more banana roti and will return to Hat Yai ASAP to enjoy the calmer pace, the friendly people, and the plentiful and tasty food. If you seek a quick break and a change, Hat Yai is the place to go.

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Travel
The bus from Penang to Hat Yai takes around four hours and can easily be booked with a bus operator in GeorgeTown.Alternatively, take the train from Butterworth to Hat Yai.This daily service takes around five and a half hours and tickets can be purchased from the KTM ticket office in GeorgeTown.

Visa
Tourist visas are available on arrival for citizens of most nations and are usually valid for 15 days or 30 days, but they can also be extended by paying a fee before they expire. It is best checking online before you travel to confirm if you are eligible for a visa on arrival, and the precise terms and conditions of your tourist visa will depend on your country of citizenship.

Accomodation
Lee Garden is the main part of town, and there are all manner of hotels and guesthouses available to suit your budget. Mid-week, it is easy to find a room, but during weekends and Malaysian or Singaporean public holidays hotels can get booked, so reserve your room in advance.

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Photo credit: Dome-sekoser / Foter.com / CC BY-NC-ND

Source: Penang International February 2013 -March 2013

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