This post was written by Petra O’Neill.
JOIN PETRA O’NEILL AS SHE RETURNS TO CHIANG RAI, A CITY OF ADVENTURES THAT, WHILE SO OFTEN OVERLOOKED FOR ITS MORE POPULAR SIBLING CHIANG MAI, HAS MUCH TO OFFER THE INTERESTED TRAVELLER.
For a solo traveller, arriving in a city as compact and welcoming as Chiang Rai provides the comforting reassurance of being able to relax and enjoy the journey that lies ahead. At the airport I was met by a driver, humourously clutching a sign that read “Mr Petra and party”and quickly transported the short distance to The Legend, a beautiful resort with guestrooms scattered in a tropical garden setting. Soon, I was sitting in the open air dining room with views of the sunset over the Kok River, eating a tasty vegetable curry; Northern Thai cuisine is distinctive and full of flavour, based more on rich curries than the lighter, Chinese-influenced food of central Thailand.
RETURN TO THE NORTH
While I have visited Thailand many times, I wanted to return to Chiang Rai, the smaller quieter, sister city to Chiang Mai, to enjoy once again its rugged peaks, limestone cliffs, lush mountainous forests, hill-tribes, and the mighty Mekong River, which are all nearby.
Located 785km north of Bangkok, Chiang Rai lies near the Golden Triangle and the point at which Myanmar, Laos, and Thailand converge. Founded by King Mengrai in 1262, Chiang Rai was the capital of Mengrai’s Lanna Kingdom for just 34 years before being superseded by Chiang Mai, and was subsequently conquered by Myanmar (then Burma), remaining under Burmese rule for several hundred years.
Once my vegetarian curry has been savoured, I walk to the renowned night market that sells handicraft items made by hill tribes. The stalls are arranged around a stage on which traditional Thai music and dances are performed; it was a good place to begin my Chiang Rai experience.
SOLO ADVENTURES
I set off early next morning for the fresh produce market, and then visited many of the temples to be found at every turn, (such as Wat Doi Chom Thong on the outskirts of town) that possess a humble elegance and are decorated with simple, hard-carved wood sculptures. One of the most beautiful temples in Thailand is here in Chiang Rai – Wat Phra Kaew – and is set in a beautiful garden that dates from the 13th century and contains several fine bronze Buddha statues.
After my morning of exploring I was met by my driver for the 90-minute journey north to Lanjia Lodge at Kiew Kuan village, past the coffee and tea plantations, rice fields and mountainous forests that surround the narrow road.
“But where are the other guests?” I inquired on arrival at the Lodge. “Today, only you!” I was told. “After lunch, would you care for a guided tour to nearby villages to visit the Sharman?” And so it was that I was told by the Sharman, or spiritual healer, that my life would be a long one, although the reading can change every 15 days.
Until then, I had not visited a traditional Hmong Village, where neat timber homes are built upon the earth. The men wear black jackets and baggy indigo trousers, and the women are adorned with embroidered jackets, their long black hair tied back. The Hmong, Thailand’s second largest ethnic minority, originally came from southern China. The neighbouring village is Lahu, who originally came from Tibet and live in homes high up on the hillside. Some women seated together were amused by my hiking shoes, and several curious children trudged along behind us as we trekked to the other village on the hill.
CLOSER TO NATURE
The next morning I woke to the triumphant crowing of a rooster. With my guides Sawneng, a Hmong from the village, and Ton, I visited an organic tea plantation and enjoyed a refreshing cup of Oolong tea. We then hiked uphill to a waterfall, listening to the birdsong that filled the forest.
After lunch – much of it from the lodge’s own vegetable garden – I asked what activities I could do for the afternoon. “A rest” was suggested, but I had something else in mind: “Can I go on a longtail boat ride?”
The most memorable part of this journey was slicing through the water towards Chiang Khong, near to the shoreline of Laos. Chiang Khong is a pleasant settlement with internet cafés, shops, and guesthouses along the main street. It is from here that travellers can enter Laos to catch a slow boat to Luang Prabang. On my last night at the lodge, I enjoyed a relaxing traditional Thai massage – another highlight of my stay – and reflected on how special my visit had been. There is magic to a tropical sunset, when shades of pink, gold, and purple fill the sky. It was while at Lanjia Lodge, seated on comfy cushions in the open lounge, that I became transfixed by the brilliance of changing colours as the sun receded behind the Mekong River below, and I realised that I was in a very special place.
———————————————————————————————————
Getting There:
Malaysia Airlines fly from KL to Bangkok, from where travellers can board a connecting flight to Chiang Rai. AirAsia flies direct to Chiang Mai, from where a bus travels the distance between the cities in about three hours.
Getting Around:
Taxis are inexpensive, and the Green Line bus is recommended. Chiang Rai is a small city that can be navigated on foot or bicycle. It is easy to hire a car and a driver (contact luangsay_ [email protected]) for travelling further afield. The Chiang Rai Visitors Centre has maps and helpful staff.
Accomodation:
Chiang Rai has a wide choice of accomodation options, from budget hostels (such as City Home Guesthouse) and small hotels (The North Hotel) to five-star, luxury hotels (Le Meridien and Four Season Tented Camp). The author stayed at The Legend Chiang Rai Boutique River Resort and Spa (www.thelegendchiangrai.com) and Lanjia Lodge (www.asian-oasis.com), the latter of which is dedicated to preserving the environment and the local heritage.
———————————————————————————————————
Source: The Expat January 2013
Read more:
"ExpatGo welcomes and encourages comments, input, and divergent opinions. However, we kindly request that you use suitable language in your comments, and refrain from any sort of personal attack, hate speech, or disparaging rhetoric. Comments not in line with this are subject to removal from the site. "
